How to fix a dripping faucet (2026)
Quick Answer
A dripping tap is usually caused by a worn sealing part, mineral build-up, or a faulty valve or cartridge inside the handle. The fix is to shut off the water, identify the tap type, inspect the internal parts, and replace the worn washer, O-ring, cartridge, ceramic disc assembly or valve seat parts as needed. If the tap body is cracked, heavily corroded, seized, or the leak continues after replacing the correct parts, it is sensible to call a plumber.
Overview
A dripping tap wastes water and usually gets worse rather than better. In most cases the problem is inside the tap itself: a rubber washer may no longer seal properly, an O-ring may have worn, a cartridge may be faulty, or limescale and debris may be stopping the valve from closing fully. The right repair depends on the tap design, so diagnosis matters more than force. A compression tap with separate hot and cold handles is repaired differently from a quarter-turn ceramic disc tap or a single-lever mixer. The safest approach is to isolate the water supply first, protect the plughole so small parts are not lost, and dismantle the tap carefully so you can match replacement parts exactly. Many drips are fixed by cleaning scale and replacing the sealing component, but if the valve seat is damaged, the tap body is cracked, or the leak is coming from pipe connections below the basin, the repair may be more involved. This guide focuses on practical household fixes for common dripping taps and explains when a straightforward repair becomes a job for a professional.
Who this is for
Homeowners and tenants who are allowed to carry out minor tap repairs, especially on kitchen and bathroom basin taps, sink mixers and standard household taps.
What you’ll need
- Flat-head and cross-head screwdriver
- Adjustable spanner or suitable spanner
- Soft cloth or rag
- Plughole cover or sink plug
- Replacement washer, O-ring, cartridge or ceramic disc valve matched to your tap
- Cleaning cloth or small brush
- White vinegar or a manufacturer-approved limescale cleaner if suitable for the finish
- PTFE tape for threaded connections if the manufacturer recommends it
- Torch
Before you start
Turn off the water to the tap using the local isolation valves if fitted, or the main stop valve if not. Open the tap to confirm the water is off and to relieve pressure. Put the plug in the sink or cover the waste so screws and clips cannot fall down it. Take clear photos as you dismantle the tap, because many handles and retaining parts look similar when reassembling.
Step-by-step
- 1
Identify where and when the tap is leaking
Check whether the drip comes from the spout only, from around the handle, or from the base of the tap. Note whether it drips constantly, only when turned on, or only after closing. Also note whether it is a traditional compression tap, a quarter-turn ceramic disc tap, or a single-lever mixer.
Why: The leak location and tap type narrow down the likely failed part. A spout drip usually points to the internal shut-off parts, while a handle leak often means an O-ring, gland or cartridge seal issue.
- 2
Isolate the water and prepare the work area
Shut off the water supply to the tap. Open the tap fully to drain residual water, then close it again. Protect decorative finishes with a cloth before using tools, and cover the sink waste.
Why: Working on a live tap can cause sudden water release and makes diagnosis harder. Protecting the finish helps prevent tool marks and damage.
- 3
Remove the handle and access the valve assembly
Pry off the decorative cap if present, undo the handle screw, and lift off the handle. Remove any shroud or retaining nut to expose the cartridge, headgear or valve assembly. Keep parts in order as they come off.
Why: You need access to the sealing and control components to inspect them properly. Keeping parts in order reduces mistakes during reassembly.
- 4
Inspect for the most common causes
Look for a flattened or split washer on a compression tap, a worn O-ring, cracked or stiff seals, heavy limescale, grit, corrosion, or a damaged ceramic disc cartridge. If the brass seating surface inside the tap body looks rough or pitted, the valve seat may be the problem.
Why: Most drips are caused by wear, debris or scale stopping a watertight seal. Replacing the wrong part wastes time and may not stop the leak.
- 5
Clean and replace the faulty part
Clean scale and debris from removable parts and the seating area using a non-abrasive method suitable for the tap finish. Replace worn washers, O-rings or the whole cartridge or ceramic disc valve with a matching part. If the manufacturer provides service instructions, follow them for orientation and reassembly order.
Why: Even a good new seal can fail if dirt or scale is left behind. Matching the exact part is important because similar-looking components may not seal correctly.
- 6
Reassemble carefully without overtightening
Refit the valve assembly, retaining nut, shroud and handle in the reverse order. Tighten firmly but gently, using only enough force to secure the parts and compress seals properly.
Why: Overtightening can crack cartridges, distort washers, strip threads and damage tap finishes, creating a new leak.
- 7
Restore the water and test
Slowly turn the water back on. Check first for leaks around the handle, body and any visible connections, then run the tap and turn it off several times. If the drip has stopped but the handle feels stiff, remove it again and check that the cartridge or headgear is seated correctly.
Why: Turning the supply on slowly reduces shock to new seals and makes it easier to spot small leaks before they worsen.
Why this works
A tap stops water by pressing a sealing surface against a seat or by aligning and closing internal ports. Drips happen when that seal is worn, contaminated, misaligned or damaged. Replacing the failed sealing component and cleaning the mating surfaces restores a proper shut-off.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Trying to force the tap tighter instead of repairing the worn internal part
- Buying a replacement cartridge or washer by eye without matching it properly
- Forgetting to isolate the water before dismantling the tap
- Losing small screws, clips or spacers down the waste
- Overtightening retaining nuts and cracking or distorting parts
- Using abrasive cleaners or tools on plated finishes and ceramic surfaces
Troubleshooting
Tap still drips from the spout after replacing a washer
Check that the tap is actually a compression type and that the washer size and shape are correct. Inspect the valve seat for roughness or damage, and check for debris left behind. If the seat is damaged or the tap uses a cartridge rather than a washer, fit the correct part or seek professional repair.
Water leaks from around the handle
Replace the O-ring, gland seal or cartridge seals as appropriate for the tap type. Make sure the retaining nut is correctly seated and not cross-threaded.
Single-lever mixer still leaks after cleaning
The cartridge is likely worn internally and usually needs full replacement rather than cleaning alone. Match the replacement to the manufacturer or the old cartridge.
Tap is very stiff to turn
Scale or corrosion may be affecting the moving parts. Clean removable components, replace the cartridge or headgear if worn, and do not force seized parts. If the spindle or body is badly corroded, replacement may be better.
Leak appears under the sink rather than at the spout
Check the flexible tails, compression joints and shut-off valves below the basin. This is a different fault from a dripping spout and may need resealing or tightening to manufacturer guidance.
No isolation valves and the main stop valve will not shut off fully
Do not dismantle the tap until the water can be reliably isolated. Call a plumber if the stop valve is seized or defective.
Compare your options
Replace washer or O-ring only
Best for: Traditional compression taps with clearly worn rubber seals
Pros: Usually the simplest and least expensive repair; keeps the existing tap
Cons: Will not solve a damaged seat, faulty cartridge or cracked body
Replace cartridge or ceramic disc valve
Best for: Single-lever mixers and quarter-turn taps
Pros: Addresses the full control unit; often the most reliable fix for modern taps
Cons: Parts must match exactly; some branded cartridges are harder to source
Replace the whole tap
Best for: Old, corroded, obsolete or repeatedly leaking taps
Pros: Can be more durable than repeated small repairs; may improve efficiency and usability
Cons: More labour, more disruption, and may require work on connections below the sink
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Replace washer or O-ring only | Traditional compression taps with clearly worn rubber seals | Usually the simplest and least expensive repair; keeps the existing tap | Will not solve a damaged seat, faulty cartridge or cracked body |
| Replace cartridge or ceramic disc valve | Single-lever mixers and quarter-turn taps | Addresses the full control unit; often the most reliable fix for modern taps | Parts must match exactly; some branded cartridges are harder to source |
| Replace the whole tap | Old, corroded, obsolete or repeatedly leaking taps | Can be more durable than repeated small repairs; may improve efficiency and usability | More labour, more disruption, and may require work on connections below the sink |
Alternatives
- Take the old washer, O-ring or cartridge to a plumbers' merchant to match it
- Use the tap manufacturer's spare-parts guide if the make and model are known
- If the tap is very old or spare parts are unavailable, replace the tap instead of repairing it repeatedly
Pro tips
- Photograph each stage before removing the next part
- Lay parts out in order on a towel so reassembly is easier
- If only one tap in a pair is dripping, check the other for similar wear while the tools are out
- Clean off limescale gently; heavy scraping can damage sealing surfaces
- If the decorative cap is stubborn, wrap the tool tip with tape to reduce marking
Safety notes
- Always isolate the water before dismantling any tap
- Check that the water is truly off by opening the tap before removing parts
- Protect chrome and other finishes with a cloth when using spanners
- Do not use excessive force on seized parts, especially on older pipework or thin tap bodies
- Keep cleaning products off surfaces if the manufacturer says they are unsuitable
Legal & regulatory notes
If you are a tenant, your tenancy agreement may limit what plumbing repairs you can carry out yourself. In some buildings or leasehold properties, shut-off arrangements or building rules may affect what work you can do. If the repair involves supply pipework changes rather than the tap itself, local water regulations and landlord or building rules may apply.
What this guide does not cover: This guide does not cover replacing supply pipework, concealed taps inside walls, electric instant hot water taps, or brand-specific disassembly instructions for every model.
Cost considerations
Replacing a washer or O-ring is usually the lowest-cost repair. Cartridge replacement costs more because the part must match the tap. If the tap is old, seized or unsupported with spare parts, replacing the whole tap can be better value than repeated repair attempts.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know whether my tap uses a washer or a cartridge?+
Traditional taps that need several turns to open often use a washer. Quarter-turn taps and most single-lever mixers usually use ceramic disc valves or cartridges. The surest way to confirm is to remove the handle and inspect the internal assembly.
Can I fix a dripping tap without turning off the main water supply?+
Yes, if the tap has working local isolation valves on its supply pipes. If not, you usually need to use the main stop valve. Do not dismantle the tap unless the supply is fully isolated.
Should I use lubricant on tap parts?+
Only if the manufacturer recommends a suitable plumbing-safe product for that specific component. The wrong lubricant can damage rubber seals or interfere with the tap's operation.
Why does the tap drip for a short time after I turn it off?+
A brief final drip can be normal as water drains from the spout. A continuing drip that does not stop usually means the shut-off seal is not closing properly because of wear, scale or debris.
Is it worth repairing an old dripping tap?+
Often yes, if parts are available and the body is sound. If the tap is badly corroded, repeatedly leaking, or uses obsolete parts, replacement is often the better long-term option.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 24 September 2026.
- The Chartered Institute of Plumbing and Heating Engineering · industry
Supports good plumbing practice and using qualified professionals when repairs go beyond straightforward household maintenance.
- Delta Faucet - Repair articles and support · manufacturer
Supports the principle that repair steps and replacement parts vary by tap type and manufacturer, especially for cartridges and ceramic disc assemblies.
Basic tap repair methods change slowly, though exact parts and disassembly steps vary by manufacturer and model.