How do i stop weeds growing through my paved driveway? (2026)
Quick Answer
To stop weeds growing through a paved driveway, remove the existing growth properly, clean out the joints, and then refill and seal them with the right jointing material for your paving type. Long term control usually depends less on spraying and more on stopping seeds, soil and moisture collecting in gaps where weeds can establish.
Overview
Most weeds in paved driveways do not grow up from deep underground through solid paving. They usually germinate in sand, dirt and organic matter that builds up in joints and along edges, especially where the surface stays damp or the jointing has washed out. That means the best fix is usually a combination of weed removal, cleaning, re-jointing and ongoing maintenance rather than repeated spot treatment alone. Start by killing or removing what is there, then scrape out loose debris and failed jointing so you can refill the gaps properly. If the paving has shifted, sunk or opened up, simply adding more sand often gives only short-term results because movement creates fresh gaps for weeds. In those cases, lifting and relaying affected areas may be the lasting answer. For block paving, paving slabs and similar surfaces, a stable jointing product and good edge restraint are often more important than any weedkiller. Regular sweeping also matters because it removes the seeds and fine material that weeds need to start growing. If the problem keeps returning from the same cracks, or if water sits on the drive after rain, there may be an underlying drainage or structural issue that needs repair.
Who this is for
Homeowners and occupiers with block paving, paving slabs, brick, stone or similar hard-surfaced driveways who want a practical way to reduce recurring weed growth.
What you’ll need
- stiff outdoor broom
- patio knife or joint scraper
- hand weeding tool
- bucket or garden waste bag
- protective gloves
- eye protection
- appropriate weedkiller if you choose chemical treatment
- replacement jointing sand or jointing compound suitable for your paving
- watering can or hose if required by the jointing product instructions
- pressure washer if appropriate for your paving and used carefully
Before you start
Check what kind of driveway you have and whether the weeds are mainly in joints, at edges, or in cracks caused by movement. Read the label of any weedkiller and the instructions for any jointing product before use, and check local rules for using pesticides and for runoff near drains or water. If the driveway is badly uneven, loose, or holds standing water, plan to fix the structure as well as the weeds.
Step-by-step
- 1
Remove the existing weeds
Pull out small weeds by hand or with a weeding tool, removing as much root as you can. For heavier growth, use a weedkiller that is suitable for the weeds present and approved for hard surfaces, following the product label exactly. Leave enough time for the treatment to work before disturbing the weeds.
Why: If you trap live weeds under fresh jointing, they often regrow. Killing or fully removing them first gives you a clean base for the repair.
- 2
Clear out the joints and edges
Scrape out moss, loose sand, failed jointing material and built-up dirt from between the pavers and along the edges of the driveway. Sweep everything away so the joints are clean and open. If you use a pressure washer, keep the jet controlled and avoid blasting out sound bedding or widening the joints.
Why: Weeds need a place to root. Cleaning out the joints removes the soil-like material and opens space for fresh jointing to bind properly.
- 3
Check for movement, gaps and drainage problems
Look for blocks or slabs that rock, wide or uneven joints, broken edges, areas that have sunk, and places where water sits after rain. Mark any problem spots that may need lifting and relaying rather than simple re-sanding.
Why: Weeds return fastest where paving moves or stays wet. Fixing the cause is more effective than repeatedly treating the symptom.
- 4
Repair any damaged or uneven sections
Lift and reset any loose or sunken pavers if needed, replacing failed bedding or edge support with materials recommended for that paving system. Make sure the surface is stable before you refill the joints.
Why: Jointing products work best when the paving is firm. If the surface moves under traffic, the joints open up again and let weeds back in.
- 5
Refill the joints with the correct material
Use a jointing material suited to the paving type and joint width, such as kiln-dried sand for compatible block paving or a proprietary jointing compound where suitable. Brush it fully into dry, clean joints, or apply it exactly as directed by the manufacturer if it is a resin or other specialist product.
Why: Properly filled joints leave less room for seeds, moisture and debris to collect, which makes it much harder for weeds to establish.
- 6
Compact or settle the jointing as required
For your chosen material, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for settling, compacting or activating it. Top up any areas that drop back after settling, then sweep off surplus from the surface.
Why: A joint that only looks full on top often leaves voids below. Proper settling creates a denser barrier against weed growth and washout.
- 7
Keep the surface clean and monitor it
Sweep the driveway regularly, especially in autumn and after windy weather, and remove any new seedlings while they are small. Refill localised joints if material is lost, and deal quickly with moss or algae if damp conditions encourage regrowth.
Why: Most driveway weeds start from wind-blown seeds. Ongoing cleaning prevents the organic build-up that lets them germinate.
Why this works
Weeds need three things to thrive in paving joints: a gap, a growing medium and moisture. Cleaning out debris, repairing movement and filling joints properly removes those conditions, so far fewer seeds can germinate and survive.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Only spraying weeds and not cleaning out the joints afterwards
- Using a pressure washer too aggressively and stripping out sound jointing and bedding
- Brushing new sand into joints that are still damp or dirty
- Ignoring loose, sunken or rocking pavers that are causing the gaps
- Using a jointing product that is not suitable for the paving type or joint size
- Letting leaves, soil and moss build up on the driveway again
Troubleshooting
Weeds come back quickly in the same places
Check for loose paving, failed edge restraint or standing water in those spots. Repeated regrowth usually means there is a structural or drainage issue, not just a maintenance issue.
Jointing sand keeps washing out
Confirm the driveway has the right slope and drainage, then refill with a compatible jointing material and make sure it is properly settled. Avoid directing heavy water flow across the joints.
Moss and algae keep appearing
Improve sunlight and airflow if possible, brush more often, and treat growth promptly with a suitable product for hard surfaces following the label.
Pressure washing made the weed problem worse
Allow the area to dry, remove fresh debris, and re-joint the paving properly. In future, use gentler cleaning and re-sand immediately if washing has opened the joints.
Compare your options
Hand weeding and joint cleaning
Best for: Light growth and routine upkeep
Pros: Low cost, immediate, no chemical use, good for spot treatment
Cons: Labour-intensive and less effective if roots are deep or the joints are failing
Weedkiller plus re-jointing
Best for: Established weed growth across a wider area
Pros: Can clear heavy growth more thoroughly before repair, useful where roots are hard to pull
Cons: Requires careful label compliance and does not solve loose or sunken paving by itself
Lift and relay affected paving
Best for: Recurring weeds caused by movement, poor drainage or failed base support
Pros: Most durable fix when the problem is structural
Cons: More work, more disruption and usually higher cost than simple maintenance
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand weeding and joint cleaning | Light growth and routine upkeep | Low cost, immediate, no chemical use, good for spot treatment | Labour-intensive and less effective if roots are deep or the joints are failing |
| Weedkiller plus re-jointing | Established weed growth across a wider area | Can clear heavy growth more thoroughly before repair, useful where roots are hard to pull | Requires careful label compliance and does not solve loose or sunken paving by itself |
| Lift and relay affected paving | Recurring weeds caused by movement, poor drainage or failed base support | Most durable fix when the problem is structural | More work, more disruption and usually higher cost than simple maintenance |
Alternatives
- Replace badly cracked or uneven paved sections rather than repeatedly patching them
- Use a specialist jointing compound instead of plain sand where it is compatible with your paving and conditions
- For gravel drives, use a weed membrane and fresh gravel topping rather than paved-joint methods
Pro tips
- Remove seedlings as soon as you see them; they are much easier to deal with before roots establish
- Sweep the driveway regularly to stop wind-blown seeds and composting leaf litter settling into joints
- Treat the edges of the driveway as well as the centre, because weeds often spread inward from borders
- If you pressure wash, plan to re-joint afterwards rather than assuming the existing joints will stay intact
Safety notes
- Wear gloves and eye protection when scraping joints, pressure washing or handling weedkiller
- Follow the weedkiller label exactly, including any precautions for pets, children and nearby planting
- Avoid overspray or runoff into surface water drains, ponds or watercourses
- Take care on wet, mossy or recently treated paving because it can be slippery
Legal & regulatory notes
In the UK, pesticides must be used in line with the product label and with care to avoid contamination of water and non-target areas. Local rules may affect what can be used and how waste should be handled, so check your council guidance and the product manufacturer’s instructions.
What this guide does not cover: This guide covers weed control in paved driveways and joint maintenance, not full driveway reconstruction design, retaining structures, or diagnosis of major ground movement.
Cost considerations
The cheapest approach is usually manual removal and re-sanding, but repeated short-term fixes can cost more over time if the driveway is moving or draining badly. Proprietary jointing compounds and professional relaying generally cost more upfront but may reduce repeat maintenance where they are appropriate.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified landscaper through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Will weeds grow up from underneath the driveway?+
Sometimes, but many driveway weeds actually grow from seeds landing in the joints and germinating in trapped dirt. If weeds are consistently pushing through cracks in the same places, check for gaps, failed bedding or drainage problems underneath.
Is pressure washing enough to stop weeds?+
No. It can remove visible growth and dirt, but it often strips out jointing material as well. Unless you refill the joints properly afterwards, weeds usually return quickly.
Should I use salt, vinegar or bleach?+
These home remedies can damage surrounding plants, stain surfaces or create runoff issues, and they are not a proper long-term repair for failed joints. It is safer to use approved products as directed on the label or use manual removal and re-jointing.
What is the best joint filler for a block paved driveway?+
It depends on the paving system, joint width and whether the area carries vehicles. Use the paving manufacturer’s guidance or the jointing product instructions to choose a compatible material rather than guessing.
How often should I maintain the driveway to keep weeds down?+
A light, regular routine works best: sweep often, remove seedlings early, and top up any joints that open up. The exact frequency depends on tree cover, weather, traffic and how sheltered or damp the drive is.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 25 September 2026.
- HSE - Using pesticides safely and legally · government
Supports the need to follow pesticide labels, use products lawfully and avoid harm to people and the environment.
The maintenance principles stay fairly stable, but product options and pesticide rules can change, so always check current labels and local guidance.