How do i replace a tap washer to stop a drip? (2026)
Quick Answer
To stop a dripping compression tap, you usually need to turn off the water, take the tap apart, replace the worn washer on the spindle, then reassemble and test it. The key is matching the new washer to the old one and checking the valve seat inside the tap body, because a new washer will not cure a drip if the seat is damaged.
Overview
A steady drip from a traditional tap is often caused by a worn or hardened washer inside the tap headwork. When you turn the tap off, that washer is meant to press firmly against the valve seat and stop the flow. Over time it can flatten, crack or loosen, allowing water to seep through. Replacing the washer is a common home maintenance job if you have a standard compression tap rather than a ceramic disc tap. The work is straightforward, but doing it in the right order matters. You need to isolate the water first, protect the plughole so small parts are not lost, and remove the tap headwork carefully to avoid damaging decorative covers, threads or the spindle. Once open, inspect more than just the washer: the jumper valve, O-ring or gland packing, and the valve seat can also be responsible for leaks or stiffness. If the seat is pitted or the tap body is badly corroded, simply fitting a new washer may only be a short-term fix. This guide is aimed at a practical repair that stops a drip. It does not cover every tap design, and it is not the right approach for mixer taps or ceramic cartridge taps that need cartridge replacement instead of a washer.
Who this is for
Homeowners or tenants with a dripping traditional compression tap who are comfortable doing a basic plumbing repair with hand tools.
What you’ll need
- Replacement tap washer that matches the old one
- Adjustable spanner or suitable spanner
- Flat-head and/or cross-head screwdriver
- Cloth or towel to protect surfaces
- Plughole plug or rag
- Long-nose pliers if needed
- Silicone-based plumber's grease suitable for taps, if recommended by the tap manufacturer
- A torch for seeing inside the tap body
Before you start
Check what type of tap you have. This guide suits a compression tap that tightens down with several turns. If your tap only turns a quarter or half turn, it is more likely to use a ceramic disc cartridge, not a washer. Find out how to isolate the water to that tap or to the property before you dismantle anything. Put the plug in the basin or block the waste so screws and caps cannot fall down the drain. If the tap serves hot water, let it cool first.
Step-by-step
- 1
Turn off the water and drain the tap
Shut off the isolating valve for the tap if there is one. If not, turn off the main water supply. Open the tap fully to let the remaining water drain out, and open any paired hot or cold tap as needed to relieve pressure. Put a towel around the base of the tap and block the plughole.
Why: This prevents an unexpected spray of water when you remove the headwork and stops small parts from being lost.
- 2
Remove the tap handle
Pry off the decorative cap marked hot or cold if fitted, then undo the handle screw. Lift the handle off. If it is stuck, wiggle it gently rather than forcing it. Remove any shroud or cover that hides the gland nut or headwork.
Why: You need clear access to the tap headwork. Forcing the handle can crack it or damage the spindle.
- 3
Unscrew and remove the tap headwork
Use the correct spanner on the flats of the headwork or bonnet nut, not on decorative surfaces. Hold the tap body steady if needed and turn carefully to unscrew the assembly from the tap body. Lift the spindle assembly out.
Why: The headwork contains the washer and jumper valve. Using the spanner in the right place reduces the risk of scarring the tap or twisting connected pipework.
- 4
Replace the washer and inspect related parts
At the bottom of the spindle assembly, remove the old washer from the jumper valve or retaining point. Fit a new washer of the same type and size. Check that it sits flat and is secured properly. Also inspect the jumper valve, spindle, and any O-ring or gland packing for wear or cracking.
Why: A mismatched or badly seated washer may still drip. Other worn sealing parts can cause leaks from around the spindle even if the drip from the spout stops.
- 5
Check the valve seat inside the tap body
Look into the tap body with a torch. If the seat where the washer seals looks rough, grooved, chipped or badly pitted, the tap may continue to drip. If the seat looks sound, wipe away debris. If the tap design allows seat servicing, follow the manufacturer guidance; otherwise replacement of the tap or professional repair may be needed.
Why: The washer seals against the seat. A damaged seat can cut a new washer quickly or prevent a proper seal.
- 6
Reassemble the tap carefully
If appropriate for the tap design, apply a small amount of suitable silicone-based plumber's grease to threads or moving seals, but not in a way that interferes with the washer seating. Screw the headwork back into the tap body by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten it firmly with the spanner. Refit the cover, handle and screw.
Why: Starting by hand protects the threads. Correct reassembly helps the tap turn smoothly and seal properly without damaging components.
- 7
Turn the water back on and test
Slowly restore the water supply. Open and close the tap several times, then leave it off and watch the spout for drips. Check around the spindle and around the headwork joint for leaks. If there is a small leak around the spindle, the gland may need slight adjustment or the O-ring may need replacement.
Why: Slow testing reduces pressure shock and lets you spot whether the repair has fixed the original drip or revealed another worn seal.
Why this works
In a compression tap, turning the handle drives a spindle down so the washer presses onto the valve seat and blocks water flow. When the washer wears or hardens, it cannot make a watertight seal, so water escapes as a drip. Replacing it restores that seal, provided the seat and other sealing parts are still in good condition.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Trying this on a ceramic disc tap that does not use a standard washer
- Forgetting to isolate the water before dismantling the tap
- Not blocking the plughole and losing screws or the handle cap
- Taking the old washer out and fitting a new one that does not match it
- Over-tightening the tap after reassembly and damaging threads or making the tap stiff
- Ignoring a damaged valve seat and assuming a new washer will solve everything
Troubleshooting
The tap still drips after the washer is replaced
Check that the new washer matches the old one and is fitted the right way if the design is directional. Inspect the valve seat for pitting or grooves. If the seat is damaged, the tap may need seat repair, a new headwork or full replacement.
Water leaks from around the handle or spindle
The spindle seal, O-ring or gland packing may be worn. Recheck that the gland nut is correctly assembled and inspect the spindle sealing parts for replacement.
The handle will not come off
Make sure the fixing screw is fully removed and the decorative cap is not hiding a second fixing. Apply gentle wiggling rather than prising hard. If corrosion has seized it, stop before breaking the handle.
The headwork is stuck and will not unscrew
Confirm you are turning the correct part and using the spanner on the proper flats. Avoid excessive force that could twist pipework. If it is seized by scale or corrosion, professional help is safer.
The tap is now hard to turn
Disassemble and check that parts are seated correctly and not over-tightened. Inspect the spindle threads and seals, and use only an appropriate lubricant if the manufacturer permits it.
Compare your options
Replace washer only
Best for: A traditional compression tap with a clearly worn washer and otherwise sound parts
Pros: Low-cost repair, quick, keeps the existing tap
Cons: Will not cure a damaged seat, worn spindle seals or a failing headwork
Replace the whole tap headwork or cartridge assembly
Best for: A tap with multiple worn internal parts or where matching small parts is difficult
Pros: Can solve several internal wear issues at once, often easier than rebuilding old internals
Cons: You must get the correct replacement part for the tap, not suitable for all models
Replace the complete tap
Best for: Old, corroded or damaged taps, or taps with a worn valve seat that cannot be practically repaired
Pros: Fresh seals and internals throughout, can improve reliability and usability
Cons: Bigger job, more disruption, may require professional fitting
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Replace washer only | A traditional compression tap with a clearly worn washer and otherwise sound parts | Low-cost repair, quick, keeps the existing tap | Will not cure a damaged seat, worn spindle seals or a failing headwork |
| Replace the whole tap headwork or cartridge assembly | A tap with multiple worn internal parts or where matching small parts is difficult | Can solve several internal wear issues at once, often easier than rebuilding old internals | You must get the correct replacement part for the tap, not suitable for all models |
| Replace the complete tap | Old, corroded or damaged taps, or taps with a worn valve seat that cannot be practically repaired | Fresh seals and internals throughout, can improve reliability and usability | Bigger job, more disruption, may require professional fitting |
Alternatives
- Replace the ceramic cartridge instead, if the tap is a quarter-turn or ceramic disc design
- Replace the complete tap if the body is corroded or the valve seat is damaged
- Have a plumber service or replace the headwork if the tap is seized or unusual
Pro tips
- Take the old washer with you when buying a replacement.
- Lay parts out in the order you remove them so reassembly is simpler.
- Photograph each stage before removing the next part if the tap design is unfamiliar.
- Use a cloth between tools and visible chrome surfaces to reduce marking.
- If one tap washer has failed through age, the matching hot or cold side may not be far behind.
Safety notes
- Turn off the water before dismantling the tap.
- If working near electrical outlets or appliances, keep the area dry and use extra care.
- Do not use excessive force on old taps; brittle parts and connected pipework can break.
- Let hot water and metal parts cool before handling them.
Legal & regulatory notes
Rules on plumbing work vary by country and sometimes by region. Basic maintenance on a tap may be allowed for an occupier, but more extensive plumbing work or work affecting drinking water systems can have legal or compliance requirements. Check local rules and any tenancy conditions before starting.
What this guide does not cover: This guide covers a standard dripping compression tap with a replaceable washer. It does not give model-specific instructions, and it does not cover every cartridge, mixer, monobloc or sensor tap design.
Cost considerations
Replacing a washer is usually one of the cheapest tap repairs if the tap body and seat are still sound. Costs rise if you also need spindle seals, a new headwork, specialist parts, or a full tap replacement.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified plumber through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my tap has a washer or a cartridge?+
A compression tap usually needs several turns to open or close and commonly uses a washer. A ceramic disc tap usually works with a short quarter or half turn and more often uses a cartridge.
Why is the tap still dripping with a new washer?+
The new washer may be the wrong type, not seated properly, or the valve seat inside the tap body may be worn or pitted. A damaged jumper valve or other internal wear can also stop the tap sealing fully.
Can I reuse the old washer if it looks mostly fine?+
It is better to replace it. A washer can harden or deform in ways that are not obvious, and reopening the tap again costs more time than fitting a fresh matching washer now.
Should I use PTFE tape on the tap headwork threads?+
Not usually for the washer repair itself. The seal is generally made by the tap's internal sealing surfaces and washers, not by wrapping the headwork threads. Follow the tap manufacturer's guidance if in doubt.
What if the leak is from the base of the tap, not the spout?+
That points to a different problem, such as seals at the base, mounting issues or pipe connections underneath. Replacing the tap washer at the spindle is unlikely to fix a leak at the base.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 25 September 2026.
- British Standards Institution - BS 5412: Specification for low resistance screw-down valves (stopvalves) for water services · industry
Supports the distinction between traditional screw-down tap/valve designs and their sealing function.
- WRAS - Water fittings and materials information · industry
Supports good practice around water fittings, suitable materials and the importance of correct plumbing components.
- Consumer NZ - Plumbing and water systems guidance · secondary
Supports consumer-facing guidance on home plumbing maintenance and when replacement rather than repair may be more practical.
The basic method for replacing a washer in a traditional compression tap changes slowly, though tap designs and local plumbing rules can vary.