How do i stop a dripping tap? (2026)
Quick Answer
To stop a dripping tap, first work out what type of tap you have, turn off the water supply, then replace the worn sealing part inside the tap. On older pillar or mixer taps this is often a washer or O-ring; on many modern lever taps it is a ceramic cartridge. If the tap still drips after the correct part is replaced, the valve seat or tap body may be damaged and a plumber may be needed.
Overview
A dripping tap is usually caused by a worn internal part that no longer seals properly when the tap is turned off. The exact fix depends on the tap design, so the most important first step is identifying whether you have a traditional compression tap, a quarter-turn ceramic disc tap, or a modern mixer with a cartridge. The repair is often straightforward for a careful homeowner: isolate the water, dismantle the handle, remove the valve or cartridge, fit matching replacement parts, and reassemble without overtightening. What makes these jobs go wrong is usually poor preparation rather than technical difficulty. People often skip turning off the water fully, force decorative caps or nuts, lose the order of internal parts, or fit a replacement washer or cartridge that only looks similar. Taking clear photos as you dismantle the tap helps a lot. It is also worth checking whether the drip is from the spout, around the handle, or from the base of the tap, because each points to a different seal. If the tap is very old, badly corroded, seized, or built into expensive surfaces where damage would be costly, replacing the whole tap or calling a plumber may be the safer option.
Who this is for
Homeowners or tenants with permission who want to fix a simple dripping kitchen, bathroom or laundry tap and are comfortable using basic hand tools.
What you’ll need
- flat-head and cross-head screwdriver
- adjustable spanner
- Allen key set for some lever handles
- cloth or towel
- plug or sink strainer to stop small parts falling down the waste
- replacement washer, O-ring or ceramic cartridge that matches your tap
- silicone grease suitable for plumbing seals
- needle-nose pliers if needed
- camera or phone to record part order
Before you start
Find the isolation valve for the tap or the main water shut-off. Turn the tap on after isolating to confirm water flow has stopped and pressure has been relieved. Put the plug in the basin or cover the waste so screws and clips cannot fall down the drain. Check the tap body for brand markings so you can match parts accurately; many cartridges and seals look alike but are not interchangeable.
Step-by-step
- 1
Identify where the leak is and what tap type you have
Check whether the water drips from the spout, leaks around the handle, or seeps from the base of the tap. Then look at the tap style: traditional taps that need several turns are usually compression taps with a washer, while quarter-turn or single-lever taps often use ceramic discs or a cartridge.
Why: The leaking point and tap design tell you which internal seal is likely to have failed and what replacement part you need.
- 2
Turn off the water and protect the area
Shut off the local isolation valve if fitted, or turn off the main supply if not. Open the tap to drain residual water. Put a towel in the sink and cover the waste opening.
Why: This prevents accidental flooding and stops delicate finishes, screws and clips being damaged or lost.
- 3
Remove the handle carefully
Pry off any decorative cap gently, then undo the fixing screw or grub screw. Lift off the handle without twisting excessively. If there is a shroud or cover, unscrew or lift it off by hand where possible before using tools.
Why: Handles and trim can crack or scratch easily, and forcing them is a common cause of avoidable damage.
- 4
Take out the valve, headgear or cartridge
Use a spanner to loosen the retaining nut or headgear, then remove the internal assembly. Keep the parts in order on a towel. Inspect the washer, O-rings and cartridge for wear, splitting, flattening or mineral build-up.
Why: The failed sealing part is usually visibly worn, and keeping parts in order makes correct reassembly much easier.
- 5
Replace the worn part with an exact match
Fit a matching washer, O-ring or cartridge. If using the old part to shop for a new one, compare shape, fixing method and sealing surfaces carefully. Lightly lubricate O-rings or rubber seals with silicone grease if the manufacturer allows it, but do not use unsuitable grease on potable water seals.
Why: A near match often will not seal properly, and the wrong lubricant can damage rubber or contaminate the fitting.
- 6
Check and clean the seating surfaces
Wipe away grit, scale and debris inside the tap body. If the tap uses a washer and the valve seat looks rough, pitted or damaged, do not force reassembly and expect a perfect result; the seat may need dressing or the tap may need replacement.
Why: Even a new washer or cartridge can still drip if it seals against a dirty or damaged surface.
- 7
Reassemble and restore the water supply slowly
Refit the internal assembly in the same order, tighten it firmly but without excessive force, then reinstall the handle and trim. Turn the water supply back on slowly and test the tap in both the on and off positions.
Why: Slow re-pressurising reduces stress on seals and gives you a chance to spot leaks before they become messy.
- 8
Test for both drips and handle leaks
Dry the tap completely and watch for a few minutes. Check the spout, around the handle and under the sink if accessible. If needed, operate the tap several times and recheck.
Why: Some leaks only appear under pressure or while the tap is being turned, so a quick glance is not always enough.
Why this works
A tap stops water by pressing a sealing surface against a seat inside the fitting. When the washer, O-ring or cartridge wears, hardens, cracks or becomes scored, a small path remains for water to pass through. Replacing the failed sealing part restores the shut-off seal, provided the surrounding metal or ceramic surfaces are still in good condition.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Replacing parts before identifying the exact tap type
- Forcing decorative caps, shrouds or seized nuts and damaging the finish
- Failing to isolate the water fully before dismantling
- Buying a part that looks similar but does not exactly match
- Overtightening nuts or handles during reassembly
- Ignoring a damaged valve seat and assuming a new washer will solve everything
Troubleshooting
The tap still drips from the spout after replacing the washer or cartridge
Check that the replacement part is the exact match, that it is seated correctly, and that the valve seat or mating surface is not damaged or dirty.
Water leaks around the handle when the tap is turned on
The handle spindle seal or O-ring may need replacing, or the retaining nut may need gentle adjustment according to the tap design.
The handle will not come off
Look for a hidden grub screw or decorative cap concealing a fixing screw. Apply penetrating patience rather than force; if corrosion has seized the handle badly, professional help may avoid breakage.
A quarter-turn tap feels gritty or stiff
Do not force it. Mineral build-up or a failing ceramic cartridge may be present; remove and inspect the cartridge and flush debris before reassembly.
The tap leaks from the base into the sink area
The issue may be a base seal or mounting problem rather than the internal shut-off parts. Tightening or resealing at the base may be needed.
Compare your options
Replace washer or O-ring
Best for: Traditional compression taps or leaks around a spindle seal
Pros: Low-cost part, simple repair, often quick if parts are accessible
Cons: Will not solve leaks caused by a damaged valve seat or wrong tap type
Replace ceramic cartridge
Best for: Quarter-turn taps and many modern mixer taps
Pros: Often restores smooth operation and proper shut-off in one repair
Cons: Cartridges are brand and model specific more often than washers
Replace the whole tap
Best for: Very old, seized, corroded or repeatedly leaking taps
Pros: Can be more reliable than repeated small repairs
Cons: More work, higher cost, and may involve awkward access or pipe connections
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Replace washer or O-ring | Traditional compression taps or leaks around a spindle seal | Low-cost part, simple repair, often quick if parts are accessible | Will not solve leaks caused by a damaged valve seat or wrong tap type |
| Replace ceramic cartridge | Quarter-turn taps and many modern mixer taps | Often restores smooth operation and proper shut-off in one repair | Cartridges are brand and model specific more often than washers |
| Replace the whole tap | Very old, seized, corroded or repeatedly leaking taps | Can be more reliable than repeated small repairs | More work, higher cost, and may involve awkward access or pipe connections |
Alternatives
- Replace the entire tap if spare parts are unavailable or the tap body is damaged
- Have a plumber diagnose and repair the valve seat or install a new tap
- For tenants, report the fault to the landlord or property manager if maintenance is not your responsibility
Pro tips
- Take a clear photo at each stage so you can reassemble parts in the right order.
- Bring the old washer or cartridge to a plumbing merchant to help match it accurately.
- Clean limescale gently from parts and seating areas before deciding they are defective.
- If one tap in a pair has failed due to age, the matching tap may not be far behind.
Safety notes
- Always isolate the water before dismantling any tap.
- Use hand tools carefully around chrome finishes and ceramic basins to avoid cracks and scratches.
- Do not use excessive force on seized parts; brittle fittings can snap suddenly.
- Only use replacement parts and lubricants intended for plumbing and potable water use where relevant.
Legal & regulatory notes
If you are renting, check whether you are allowed to carry out plumbing repairs yourself. Requirements for plumbing work can vary by location, especially for more than simple maintenance, so check local rules if the job expands beyond replacing accessible tap parts.
What this guide does not cover: This guide covers common household dripping taps and basic seal or cartridge replacement only. It does not cover concealed plumbing, specialist commercial fittings, sensor taps, or full tap replacement procedures.
Cost considerations
A simple seal or washer repair is usually cheaper than replacing a whole tap, but repeated failed attempts can waste time and money if the wrong parts are used. If the tap is old or parts are hard to source, replacing the tap may be more economical in the longer term.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified plumber through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Do I always need to turn off the mains water?+
Not always. If the tap has a working local isolation valve, that is usually enough. If not, turn off the main supply before opening the tap.
How do I know if it is a washer or cartridge problem?+
Traditional taps that need multiple turns commonly use a washer. Quarter-turn and single-lever taps often use ceramic discs or a cartridge. The handle style is a strong clue, but checking the internal part confirms it.
Why is my tap still dripping after fitting a new washer?+
The new washer may be the wrong size or shape, may not be seated properly, or the valve seat inside the tap may be worn or damaged.
Can I use any grease on tap seals?+
No. Use a plumbing-safe silicone grease if the manufacturer allows it. Some products can damage rubber or are unsuitable for drinking water systems.
Should I repair or replace an old tap?+
If the tap is in otherwise good condition and parts are readily available, repair is often worthwhile. If it is corroded, seized, repeatedly leaking or parts are obsolete, replacement may be the better choice.
The basic repair method changes little, though exact cartridge and seal designs vary by tap brand and model.