How do i fix a dripping outdoor tap? (2026)
Quick Answer
A dripping outdoor tap is usually caused by a worn washer, damaged O-ring, or a valve seat that no longer seals properly. In many cases you can fix it by turning off the water, dismantling the tap head, replacing the washer and any obvious seals, then reassembling and testing. If the tap body is cracked, badly corroded, seized, or still drips after new seals, it is time for a plumber.
Overview
An outdoor tap often drips because the internal seal no longer closes tightly when the handle is turned off. On older compression-style taps, the usual culprit is the jumper valve washer at the end of the spindle. On some taps, a perished O-ring around the spindle can also let water escape, especially around the handle rather than from the spout. Frost, grit, limescale and age all make outdoor taps more prone to leaks than indoor fittings. The repair is usually straightforward if you can isolate the water supply and the tap comes apart without force. The key is to work methodically: identify whether the leak is from the spout or around the spindle, take the tap apart in order, replace worn parts with matching ones, and check the valve seat for damage before putting it back together. If the seating surface inside the tap body is rough or pitted, a new washer may only help briefly. Do not force stubborn parts or keep tightening the handle harder to stop a drip; that often damages the seat and spindle. If you cannot isolate the outdoor tap safely, or the fitting is part of older pipework that looks fragile, get professional help instead.
Who this is for
Homeowners or tenants with permission who have a standard outdoor tap that is dripping from the spout or leaking lightly around the spindle, and who can safely turn off the water supply first.
What you’ll need
- adjustable spanner or correctly sized spanners
- flat-head screwdriver
- replacement tap washer matching the old one
- replacement O-ring or tap service kit if suitable for your tap
- silicone-based plumber's grease suitable for tap seals
- cloth or rag
- bucket or towel to catch residual water
- soft brush or old toothbrush
- PTFE tape only if the manufacturer or tap design calls for it
Before you start
Work out where the leak is coming from: a drip from the spout usually points to the washer or valve seat, while water around the handle often suggests a spindle seal or O-ring. Find the isolation point for the tap or the main water shut-off before you loosen anything. Take a photo of the tap as you dismantle it so you can put parts back in the right order, and check whether the tap is a standard compression tap rather than a quarter-turn ceramic cartridge type, which uses different internals.
Step-by-step
- 1
Turn off the water supply
Shut off the isolating valve feeding the outdoor tap, or turn off the property's main water supply if there is no local isolation. Open the outdoor tap fully afterwards to release pressure and drain the remaining water into a bucket or onto a towel.
Why: This prevents water escaping when the tap head is removed and makes the tap safer and easier to dismantle.
- 2
Remove the handle and expose the tap head
Pry off any decorative cap on the handle if fitted, then undo the retaining screw and lift the handle off. Use a spanner to loosen the bonnet or gland nut and then unscrew the tap head assembly from the tap body.
Why: The washer and spindle seals sit inside the tap head assembly, so you need to remove it cleanly without damaging the visible parts.
- 3
Inspect the washer, jumper valve and spindle seals
Look at the washer on the end of the spindle. If it is hardened, split, misshapen or unevenly worn, replace it with one of the same size and type. Check any O-rings or packing around the spindle and replace them if they are cracked, flattened or brittle.
Why: A damaged washer causes drips from the spout, while worn spindle seals often cause leaks around the handle area.
- 4
Check the valve seat inside the tap body
Shine a light into the tap body and examine the seat where the washer closes. Wipe away grit and scale gently with a cloth or soft brush. If the seat looks rough, grooved, pitted or chipped, note that replacing the washer alone may not cure the drip for long.
Why: The new washer must press against a reasonably smooth seat to form a watertight seal.
- 5
Lubricate and reassemble carefully
Apply a small amount of silicone-based plumber's grease to the spindle seals or O-rings if appropriate, then reassemble the tap head in the reverse order. Tighten parts firmly but do not overtighten. Refit the handle and screw.
Why: Correct reassembly helps the seals move smoothly and prevents damage from cross-threading or over-compression.
- 6
Turn the water back on and test
Restore the water supply slowly. With the tap closed, check whether the spout still drips and whether any water appears around the spindle, bonnet or body. Open and close the tap a few times to confirm it shuts off cleanly.
Why: Testing under pressure shows whether the leak has actually been fixed and whether any disturbed joints now need attention.
- 7
Replace the whole tap if the body is the problem
If the tap still drips after seal replacement, or the body is cracked, heavily corroded or the seat is damaged, replacement is often more reliable than repeated repair. Only do this yourself if you can isolate the supply and the connection type is straightforward and in good condition.
Why: Some faults are in the fixed tap body, not the serviceable seals, so internal parts alone will not solve them.
Why this works
A compression tap stops water by pressing a replaceable washer against a seat inside the tap body. If the washer, spindle seal or seating surface wears out, water can pass through even when the tap is shut. Replacing worn sealing parts restores the barrier that stops the flow.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Forcing seized parts and cracking the tap body or damaging old pipework
- Replacing the washer with one that does not match the original size or type
- Overtightening the tap to stop the drip, which can damage the seat and shorten washer life
- Forgetting to turn off the water supply fully before dismantling
- Using petroleum grease on rubber seals when the seal manufacturer calls for a silicone-based lubricant
Troubleshooting
The tap still drips from the spout after fitting a new washer
Check that the new washer matches properly, that it sits flat, and that the valve seat inside the body is not pitted or damaged. If the seat is poor, the tap may need seat repair by a professional or complete replacement.
Water leaks from under the handle or around the spindle
Replace the spindle O-ring or packing seal, then reassemble. If the spindle itself is scored or badly worn, the whole headgear or tap may need replacing.
The tap head will not unscrew
Stop before using excessive force. Apply controlled pressure with the correct spanner and support the pipework. If it remains seized, call a plumber to avoid snapping the fitting or twisting the pipe.
The tap is hard to turn after reassembly
Take it apart and check that the parts are in the correct order, seals are seated properly, and nothing has been overtightened. Light seal lubrication may help if suitable for the tap.
The leak seems worse after the repair
Turn the water back off and inspect for cross-threading, a displaced seal, or a bonnet nut that is not seated correctly. If the body is cracked or threads are damaged, stop and replace the tap or get professional help.
Compare your options
Replace washer and seals
Best for: A standard compression tap with a simple drip and otherwise sound body
Pros: Low cost, quick, often all that is needed
Cons: Will not fix a damaged seat, cracked body or badly worn spindle
Replace tap headgear or cartridge
Best for: A tap with worn internal operating parts but a good body
Pros: Can solve recurring leaks without replacing the full tap
Cons: Parts must match the tap exactly and may be harder to identify
Replace the complete outdoor tap
Best for: A cracked, corroded or repeatedly leaking tap
Pros: More reliable long term when the body is worn
Cons: More work, may require pipe adjustments, and mistakes can cause bigger leaks
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Replace washer and seals | A standard compression tap with a simple drip and otherwise sound body | Low cost, quick, often all that is needed | Will not fix a damaged seat, cracked body or badly worn spindle |
| Replace tap headgear or cartridge | A tap with worn internal operating parts but a good body | Can solve recurring leaks without replacing the full tap | Parts must match the tap exactly and may be harder to identify |
| Replace the complete outdoor tap | A cracked, corroded or repeatedly leaking tap | More reliable long term when the body is worn | More work, may require pipe adjustments, and mistakes can cause bigger leaks |
Alternatives
- Fit a new outdoor tap instead of servicing the old one if the body, threads or seat are badly worn
- Ask a plumber to diagnose the exact tap type and source matching parts if the make is unclear
Pro tips
- Take the old washer and O-ring to a merchant or hardware shop to match them accurately.
- Lay parts out in the order you remove them to make reassembly easier.
- If the outdoor tap is exposed to freezing weather, protect it afterwards because frost can damage seals and the tap body.
- If there is an isolating valve indoors for the outdoor tap, label it for quicker shut-off next time.
Safety notes
- Always isolate the water supply before dismantling the tap.
- Support exposed pipework when loosening stubborn fittings so you do not twist the pipe in the wall.
- Do not use excessive force on old or corroded fittings.
- If the area could become slippery from spilled water, mop up promptly.
Legal & regulatory notes
Rules on who can carry out plumbing work vary by country and sometimes by region, especially if work goes beyond simple maintenance and involves altering pipework. Check your local authority guidance or national plumbing regulator requirements if you plan to replace the tap or modify the supply pipe.
What this guide does not cover: This guide covers basic troubleshooting and repair of a typical dripping outdoor tap. It does not give model-specific instructions for every tap design, and it does not cover major pipework alterations, concealed leaks inside walls, or full compliance requirements for your area.
Cost considerations
Replacing a washer or seal kit is usually the cheapest fix if the tap body is sound. If the seat is damaged or the whole tap must be replaced, labour can quickly matter more than parts, especially if access is awkward or the supply cannot be isolated easily.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified plumber through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the tap still drip even when I shut it very tightly?+
That usually means the washer is worn or the valve seat is damaged. Tightening harder rarely helps for long and can make the damage worse.
How do I know if it is a washer problem or an O-ring problem?+
A drip from the spout usually points to the washer or seat. Water appearing around the handle or spindle usually points to an O-ring, packing seal or spindle issue.
Can I use any tap washer that looks about right?+
No. It needs to match the original properly. A poor fit can leak straight away or wear out quickly.
Should I use PTFE tape when putting the tap back together?+
Not automatically. Many tap internals seal with washers or O-rings rather than thread tape. Use PTFE tape only where the tap design or manufacturer guidance calls for a threaded sealing method.
What if the outdoor tap is a quarter-turn type?+
It may use a ceramic cartridge rather than a traditional washer. In that case the cartridge or complete headwork may need replacing instead of a simple washer change.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 25 September 2026.
- The Chartered Institute of Plumbing and Heating Engineering · industry
Supports general good practice in domestic plumbing repairs and when qualified help is appropriate.
- Health and Safety Executive · government
Supports general safety principles for home maintenance work, including avoiding unnecessary force and maintaining safe working conditions.
- WRAS · industry
Supports the importance of suitable plumbing components and water fitting good practice.
Basic repair steps for standard outdoor taps change slowly, though exact parts and local plumbing rules vary.