How to fix a dripping tap (2026)
Quick Answer
A dripping tap is usually caused by a worn washer, damaged ceramic cartridge, loose or worn O-ring, or dirt preventing the valve from sealing properly. The safe way to fix it is to identify the tap type, turn off the water, dismantle the handle and valve parts, replace the faulty seal or cartridge, then reassemble and test. If the tap body is cracked, badly corroded, seized, or you cannot isolate the supply, call a plumber.
Overview
Most dripping taps leak because the part that shuts off the water no longer makes a proper seal. On older compression taps, that is often a rubber washer on the end of the valve. On many modern quarter-turn taps, it is usually a ceramic cartridge. A drip can also come from an O-ring around the spindle, from mineral build-up, or from a seat inside the tap that has become rough or damaged. The job is usually manageable for a careful DIYer if you can safely turn off the water and identify the tap type before buying parts. The key is not to force anything: decorative caps, retaining nuts and cartridges can be damaged easily, and over-tightening can make leaks worse. Take photos as you dismantle the tap so you can reassemble it in the same order. If the leak is from the spout only when the tap is off, the internal shut-off parts are the main suspects. If water leaks around the handle while the tap is on, the spindle seal or cartridge seals are more likely. If the tap is old, heavily scaled or the replacement part is unavailable, replacing the whole tap can be more practical than repeated repairs.
Who this is for
Homeowners or tenants with permission who want to diagnose and repair a dripping basin, bath, kitchen or utility tap with basic hand tools.
What you’ll need
- flat-head and cross-head screwdriver
- adjustable spanner or suitable spanner
- soft cloth or tape to protect chrome surfaces
- replacement washer, O-ring or ceramic cartridge matched to the tap
- needle-nose pliers
- small container or plug for keeping screws and small parts safe
- white vinegar or manufacturer-approved descaler for cleaning scale
- silicone grease suitable for plumbing seals if approved by the tap manufacturer
Before you start
Work out where the leak is coming from: the spout, around the handle, or from joints below the sink. Identify whether you have a compression tap that needs several turns to open, or a quarter-turn tap that usually uses a ceramic cartridge. Find the isolation valves under the sink or the property stop valve, and check that you can shut the water off before dismantling anything. Put the plug in the basin or cover the waste so screws and clips cannot fall down the drain.
Step-by-step
- 1
Diagnose the type and source of the leak
Dry the tap thoroughly, then watch where water reappears. A drip from the spout with the tap off usually points to the internal shut-off seal. Water around the handle while the tap is on suggests an O-ring, gland seal or cartridge seal. Check whether the tap is a traditional compression type or a quarter-turn ceramic type.
Why: You need the correct repair part and method. Replacing the wrong component wastes time and can damage the tap.
- 2
Turn off the water and relieve pressure
Shut the local isolation valves if fitted, or turn off the main water supply. Open the tap to confirm the flow stops, then open it further to drain remaining water. If it is a mixer tap, check both hot and cold supplies are isolated.
Why: This prevents flooding and removes pressure so parts can be dismantled safely.
- 3
Remove the handle and expose the valve or cartridge
Pry off the decorative cap carefully, undo the fixing screw, and lift off the handle. Remove any shroud or cover, then undo the retaining nut or clip holding the valve head or cartridge. Protect plated surfaces with a cloth or tape before using tools.
Why: The leaking components sit beneath the handle. Protecting the finish avoids cosmetic damage and helps preserve grip for reassembly.
- 4
Inspect washers, O-rings, cartridges and seating surfaces
On a compression tap, remove the valve head and check the rubber washer at the end for wear, hardening or splitting. Inspect any spindle O-ring for cracks or flattening. On a ceramic tap, remove the cartridge and look for damaged seals, cracks or heavy scale. Check the valve seat inside the tap body for debris, roughness or corrosion.
Why: A tap only stops dripping when smooth sealing surfaces meet correctly. Even a small defect or bit of grit can keep water flowing.
- 5
Replace the faulty part and clean away scale or debris
Fit a like-for-like washer, O-ring or cartridge matched to the tap manufacturer and model where possible. Clean accessible parts and seating areas gently, removing limescale and dirt without scratching the metal. If the seat is visibly damaged and not designed to be serviced, replacement of the tap may be the better option.
Why: New seals work only if the surrounding surfaces are clean and compatible. Mismatched parts often leak straight away or fail quickly.
- 6
Reassemble carefully and do not overtighten
Refit the valve or cartridge in the same orientation it came out, then reinstall retaining nuts, shrouds and handles. Tighten firmly but gently, following any manufacturer instructions if available. Reopen the shut-off valves slowly and test the tap on and off several times.
Why: Correct alignment is essential, especially for ceramic cartridges. Overtightening can crack components, distort seals or damage threads.
- 7
Check for remaining leaks and decide whether to repair further or replace
Wipe everything dry and monitor the spout, handle area and pipe connections underneath. If the drip has stopped, the repair is complete. If it still leaks, recheck that the part is the correct type and seated properly; if not, consider replacing the cartridge, valve head or the entire tap.
Why: Testing confirms whether the fault was internal to the tap or whether there is a second issue such as a worn seat or damaged body.
Why this works
A tap stops water by pressing a sealing surface against a matching seat. Drips happen when that seal is worn, dirty, misaligned or damaged. Replacing the failed sealing part and cleaning the contact surfaces restores a watertight shut-off.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Starting work before confirming the water supply is fully isolated
- Buying a generic cartridge or washer without matching it to the old part
- Scratching chrome surfaces with tools
- Forcing a seized cartridge or nut and cracking the tap body
- Reassembling parts in the wrong order or wrong orientation
- Overtightening handles or retaining nuts
Troubleshooting
Tap still drips from the spout after replacing the washer
Check whether the tap actually uses a ceramic cartridge, or whether the valve seat inside the tap body is pitted or dirty. Remove the valve again, confirm the washer matches the original, and inspect the seat.
Water leaks from around the handle when the tap is turned on
Replace the spindle O-ring, gland seal or cartridge seals as applicable. Also check that the retaining nut is seated properly but not overtightened.
Tap is stiff to turn after reassembly
Dismantle and check alignment, trapped seals or scale. Use only manufacturer-approved lubricant on suitable seals if permitted.
No isolation valve under the sink
Turn off the main stop valve for the property. If that does not work or is stuck, do not continue; call a plumber.
Cartridge will not come out
Double-check that the retaining clip or nut is fully removed. Apply gentle, even force only. If it is seized by scale or corrosion, forcing it can break the tap; professional help may be safer.
Leak appears to be from the base of the tap or below the sink
This may be a failed base seal, flexible hose connection or mounting issue rather than a dripping mechanism. Inspect underneath and tighten or replace the affected part if accessible, otherwise seek help.
Compare your options
Replace washer or O-ring
Best for: Traditional compression taps with localised wear
Pros: Low-cost part, simple repair, keeps existing tap
Cons: Will not fix damaged seats, cracked bodies or ceramic cartridge faults
Replace ceramic cartridge
Best for: Quarter-turn taps with dripping spouts or stiff operation
Pros: Usually restores proper shut-off, often quicker than rebuilding internal seals
Cons: Part must match exactly, cartridges can be hard to identify or remove
Replace the whole tap
Best for: Old, corroded, obsolete or repeatedly failing taps
Pros: Solves multiple wear issues at once, may improve reliability
Cons: More work, may require tools and access below the sink, higher overall cost
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Replace washer or O-ring | Traditional compression taps with localised wear | Low-cost part, simple repair, keeps existing tap | Will not fix damaged seats, cracked bodies or ceramic cartridge faults |
| Replace ceramic cartridge | Quarter-turn taps with dripping spouts or stiff operation | Usually restores proper shut-off, often quicker than rebuilding internal seals | Part must match exactly, cartridges can be hard to identify or remove |
| Replace the whole tap | Old, corroded, obsolete or repeatedly failing taps | Solves multiple wear issues at once, may improve reliability | More work, may require tools and access below the sink, higher overall cost |
Alternatives
- If the tap is very old or spare parts are unavailable, replace the complete tap rather than attempting repeated repairs.
- If the leak is minor and you cannot repair it immediately, reduce water waste by shutting the isolation valve when the tap is not needed until proper repairs are made.
Pro tips
- Take the old washer, O-ring or cartridge to a plumbing merchant to help match the replacement.
- Photograph each stage so you know the exact reassembly order.
- Clean parts over a tray or towel so small clips and screws do not get lost.
- If one side of a twin-handle mixer has failed, inspect the other side too; similar-age parts often wear close together.
Safety notes
- Always isolate the water before dismantling the tap.
- Be careful around hot-water supplies and recently used taps.
- Do not use excessive force on plated brass or plastic components.
- If access requires awkward work in a cupboard, use good lighting and stable positioning.
Legal & regulatory notes
If you are a tenant, check your tenancy agreement or report the issue to the landlord or managing agent before replacing the tap. In some homes, plumbing work affecting drinking water fittings may need to follow local water regulations or be carried out with suitable approved materials.
What this guide does not cover: This guide covers common dripping tap faults on standard household taps. It does not provide model-specific disassembly for every brand, nor does it cover concealed valves, thermostatic mixer internals, or major pipework leaks.
Cost considerations
A simple seal or washer repair is usually the cheapest option if the correct part is available. If the tap is old, seized, or needs a hard-to-find cartridge, the labour and time involved can make full tap replacement better value.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified plumber through Trade Directory (tradedirectory.co.nz), New Zealand's directory of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Find a plumber on Trade DirectoryFrequently asked questions
How do I know if my tap has a washer or a ceramic cartridge?+
If the tap usually needs several full turns to open and close, it is often a compression tap with a washer. If it opens and closes in a short quarter-turn, it usually has a ceramic cartridge.
Can I fix a dripping tap without turning the water off?+
No. Internal tap parts are under pressure when the supply is on, and dismantling them can cause flooding or injury.
Why does my tap still drip after I changed the washer?+
The new washer may be the wrong size or fitted incorrectly, or the valve seat may be dirty, rough or damaged. The tap may also use a cartridge rather than a washer.
Should I use sealant or PTFE tape inside the tap mechanism?+
Not unless the manufacturer specifically instructs it for that joint. Most tap washers, O-rings and cartridges rely on correct mechanical seating, and unsuitable sealants can cause leaks or make future servicing harder.
Is a dripping tap an emergency?+
Usually not, but it should still be fixed promptly to avoid wasted water and worsening wear. It becomes more urgent if you cannot turn the tap off properly, the leak is increasing, or water is escaping under the sink.
Basic tap repair methods change slowly, though cartridge designs and manufacturer-specific parts vary by model.