How do i childproof and secure furniture to the wall? (2026)
Quick Answer
To childproof and secure furniture to the wall, use a suitable anti-tip kit or manufacturer-approved wall anchoring hardware, fix it into a solid part of the furniture and a suitable wall structure, and follow the product instructions exactly. The safest result comes from matching the fixing to your wall type and avoiding temporary or decorative fixings that are not designed to resist tip-over forces.
Safety first
- Wear eye protection when drilling and follow the drill and anchor manufacturer safety instructions.
- Check for hidden electrical cables, plumbing and other services before drilling into walls.
- Do not rely on temporary, adhesive or decorative fixings unless the product is specifically rated and instructed for furniture anti-tip use.
- Keep children out of the room while drilling, moving furniture and testing the restraint.
- Move heavy furniture with help if needed; do not try to hold a tall unit one-handed while marking or drilling.
- Do not anchor into visibly damaged walls or crumbling masonry until the substrate has been assessed and repaired.
- If the furniture is cracked, water-damaged or structurally unsound, do not assume an anchor will make it safe.
When to call a professional: Stop and consult a qualified professional if you cannot identify the wall type, suspect hidden services, have crumbly masonry or damaged plasterboard, need to drill into concrete or a fire-rated/shared wall, or the furniture is unusually heavy, valuable, damaged or made from weak material. If any fixing pulls loose during testing, do not improvise a repair. In New Zealand, you can find a verified, qualified local tradesperson through Trade Directory (tradedirectory.co.nz).
Overview
Tall or heavy furniture can tip if a child climbs, pulls on drawers, or hangs from doors. The safest approach is to anchor each item to the wall using hardware designed for anti-tip use, not improvised string, adhesive strips, or light-duty picture fixings. Start by checking whether the furniture maker supplies a restraint kit or specific instructions, because some pieces have designated anchor points and weight limits. Then identify your wall type properly: timber stud, masonry, concrete, plasterboard over studs, or another system. That matters because the wall fixing is only as strong as the surface it goes into. Place furniture level and as close to the wall as practical, fit the restraint near the top of the unit, and secure into a strong part of the frame rather than thin backing board. Test gently for movement once installed, and repeat for every tall or top-heavy item, including bookcases, wardrobes, chests of drawers and televisions on furniture. Keep heavier items in lower drawers and avoid placing attractive items up high where a child may be tempted to climb. If you cannot confidently identify the wall construction, the furniture material, or the correct anchor type, stop and get qualified help.
Who this is for
Homeowners, tenants with permission to drill, landlords, and carers who want to reduce tip-over risk from wardrobes, bookcases, drawer units and similar furniture in homes with babies or young children.
What you’ll need
- manufacturer instructions for the furniture or anti-tip kit, if available
- anti-tip strap, bracket or restraint kit rated and intended for furniture anchoring
- wall fixings suitable for your specific wall type
- drill and suitable drill bits for the wall material
- screwdriver or driver bit
- stud finder if fixing to framed walls
- pencil for marking
- spirit level
- torch to inspect the back and inside of the furniture
- basic PPE such as eye protection
Before you start
Check the furniture maker’s instructions first. Confirm what your wall is made from and whether there may be hidden electrical cables, plumbing, or other services where you plan to drill. Make sure the furniture is in its final position, empty enough to move safely if needed, and not damaged or made from weak material around the proposed fixing points. If you rent, get the owner’s permission before drilling.
Step-by-step
- 1
Choose the right restraint system
Use an anti-tip kit or anchoring hardware intended for furniture restraint. If the furniture manufacturer provides a kit or named fixing method, use that in preference to guesswork. For televisions or unusually shaped furniture, use a restraint specifically intended for that item type.
Why: The restraint must be designed to resist tipping loads, and manufacturer guidance helps you avoid fixing into weak panels or voids.
- 2
Identify the wall type and fixing point
Work out whether you are fixing into timber studs, masonry, concrete, or another wall system. On framed walls, locate a stud if the kit or manufacturer requires fixing to structure. On masonry, choose a fixing suitable for that substrate. Avoid relying on decorative plaster, thin panelling, or unknown hollow sections unless the restraint instructions specifically allow it.
Why: A strong strap or bracket can still fail if the wall fixing is wrong for the substrate.
- 3
Find a strong point on the furniture
Look for a solid top rail, side panel, or manufacturer-marked anchor point near the top of the unit. Do not screw only into thin hardboard backs, loose trim, or damaged chipboard unless the manufacturer explicitly designed that area for anchoring. If needed, remove drawers temporarily so you can see the internal frame clearly.
Why: The furniture-side connection is often the weak point if fitted into flimsy material.
- 4
Position the furniture and mark carefully
Place the furniture where it will live, as close to the wall as practical and standing level. Mark the wall and furniture fixing points according to the anti-tip kit instructions, keeping the restraint high up and free from sharp bends. Leave only the amount of slack the product instructions allow.
Why: A high fixing point and minimal slack reduce forward movement if the furniture is pulled.
- 5
Drill and fit the wall fixing safely
Check again for hidden services before drilling. Drill the wall using the correct bit and method for the wall material, then install the specified wall fixing exactly as the product or wall-anchor manufacturer directs. If fixing into a stud is required, make sure the screw bites into the structural member rather than only the plasterboard.
Why: Incorrect drilling or the wrong anchor can damage the wall, hit services, or lead to anchor failure.
- 6
Attach the restraint to the furniture
Fix the strap or bracket to the marked solid section of the furniture using the supplied or manufacturer-approved screws. Tighten securely in line with the instructions, but do not overtighten to the point of crushing particleboard or stripping out the fixing.
Why: A secure but not over-stressed fixing gives the best hold without damaging the furniture.
- 7
Connect, tension and test
Connect the wall and furniture sides of the restraint, adjust the tension as directed, and gently test for excessive movement by pulling the top of the furniture forward by hand. The unit should not lurch or tip. Refit drawers, making sure they operate normally and cannot pull fully out if they were previously restrained.
Why: Testing reveals poor anchoring, too much slack, or a weak furniture fixing before a child can load it.
- 8
Reduce climb risk after anchoring
Store heavy items in lower drawers or shelves, avoid placing toys, remotes or decorative items high up, and keep climbing aids such as chairs away from anchored furniture where possible.
Why: Anchoring is essential, but reducing reasons and opportunities to climb adds another layer of safety.
Why this works
Furniture tip-over usually happens when a child shifts the centre of gravity forwards by climbing, opening loaded drawers, or pulling on the top. Wall restraints limit forward travel and transfer some of that force into the wall structure, reducing the chance of the unit overturning.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Fixing only into plasterboard or thin furniture backing without checking whether the anchor is suitable for that substrate
- Using adhesive pads, light-duty hooks, cable ties or picture-hanging hardware instead of anti-tip restraints
- Attaching the restraint too low on the furniture, which allows more leverage and forward movement
- Leaving too much slack in the strap or failing to tension it as instructed
- Assuming a heavy unit is safe without anchoring because it looks stable
- Ignoring manufacturer instructions for flat-pack or particleboard furniture
Troubleshooting
The screw spins and will not tighten in the furniture
Stop and inspect the material. You may be in weak chipboard, a void, or damaged timber. Move to a stronger structural section or use the manufacturer’s specified anchor location and hardware.
The wall anchor feels loose or pulls slightly when tested
Do not use it. Remove and refit using the correct anchor for that wall type, or relocate to a structural fixing point such as a stud or suitable masonry area.
The furniture rocks after anchoring
Level the furniture first, check the floor, and then readjust the restraint. An anchor is not a substitute for stable placement.
Drawers hit the strap or the unit cannot sit close to the wall
Reposition the restraint following the kit guidance, or use a different restraint style better suited to the furniture shape.
Compare your options
Flexible anti-tip strap
Best for: Most freestanding bedroom and living room furniture
Pros: Usually easier to fit, allows slight movement for cleaning, commonly supplied with furniture
Cons: Can be fitted with too much slack, some designs are less suitable where very close wall contact is needed
Rigid bracket or L-bracket restraint
Best for: Furniture that can sit tight to the wall and has solid fixing points
Pros: Very little forward movement when fitted correctly
Cons: Can be harder to align, may not suit uneven walls or furniture with fragile backs
Manufacturer-specific anchoring kit
Best for: Flat-pack or brand-specific furniture with known anchor points
Pros: Designed for that product, often clearer on where to fix
Cons: May still require separate wall fixings depending on wall type
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flexible anti-tip strap | Most freestanding bedroom and living room furniture | Usually easier to fit, allows slight movement for cleaning, commonly supplied with furniture | Can be fitted with too much slack, some designs are less suitable where very close wall contact is needed |
| Rigid bracket or L-bracket restraint | Furniture that can sit tight to the wall and has solid fixing points | Very little forward movement when fitted correctly | Can be harder to align, may not suit uneven walls or furniture with fragile backs |
| Manufacturer-specific anchoring kit | Flat-pack or brand-specific furniture with known anchor points | Designed for that product, often clearer on where to fix | May still require separate wall fixings depending on wall type |
Alternatives
- Replace very unstable or damaged furniture with a safer design that includes built-in anti-tip features
- Use lower, wider storage units where appropriate, while still anchoring if recommended by the manufacturer
- Wall-mount suitable storage instead of using tall freestanding units, if the wall structure allows and the product is designed for wall mounting
Pro tips
- Anchor every tall or top-heavy item, not just the one in a child’s bedroom
- Remove drawers before drilling if it gives you a clearer view of the internal frame
- Photograph the wall and furniture fixings after installation so you know where they are for future checks or redecorating
- Recheck restraints after moving house, replacing flooring, or dismantling flat-pack furniture
- If the furniture came with a safety device in the box, fit it rather than leaving it in the packaging
Legal & regulatory notes
Requirements vary by country, tenancy agreement and building type. In rented homes, get permission before drilling and check who is responsible for child-safety improvements. Follow the furniture and restraint manufacturer instructions and any local building or strata rules that affect drilling into shared or fire-rated walls.
What this guide does not cover: This guide gives general home safety guidance only. It does not replace the exact instructions from the furniture maker, restraint manufacturer, wall-anchor manufacturer, or local building and tenancy rules. It does not cover structural wall assessment, seismic restraint design, commercial fit-outs, or specialist mounting of very heavy items.
Cost considerations
This is usually a low-cost safety upgrade if you already have tools, but the total cost can rise if you need specialised wall anchors, masonry drilling equipment, or help identifying wall construction. Replacing unsafe or damaged furniture may be better value than trying to reinforce weak units.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified roofer through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Can I secure furniture just to plasterboard?+
Only if the restraint and anchor manufacturer specifically say their fixing is suitable for that exact wall build-up and load. In many cases, a structural fixing point such as a stud or suitable masonry substrate is the safer choice.
Do I need to anchor low furniture too?+
Tall and top-heavy items are the priority, but some lower units can still tip if drawers extend fully or a television sits on top. Check the manufacturer guidance and assess climb risk.
Are the straps supplied with flat-pack furniture good enough?+
They may be, if fitted exactly as instructed and paired with suitable wall fixings for your wall type. The weak point is often the wall anchor, so do not assume one screw type suits every wall.
Will anchoring damage the wall?+
It usually involves drilling, so there will normally be small holes. If that is a concern, discuss permission and repair expectations in advance if you are renting.
How often should I check the restraints?+
Check them periodically and after any move, redecorating, earthquake, impact, or furniture rearrangement. Tightness and condition matter more than age alone.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 25 September 2026.
- U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission - Anchor It! and furniture tip-over safety information · government
Supports the need to anchor furniture and TVs to reduce tip-over risk and highlights child injury hazards from climbing and unstable furniture.
- IKEA - Prevent furniture tip-over incidents in your home · manufacturer
Supports using wall anchoring devices supplied or recommended by the manufacturer and anchoring furniture according to instructions.
- NSW Fair Trading - Toppling furniture and televisions safety · government
Supports practical prevention measures such as securing furniture and reducing climbing temptations in homes with children.
The basic safety principles change slowly, but specific products, restraint kits and manufacturer instructions can change at any time.