Bricklayer vs diy what you can and can't do yourself (2026)
Quick Answer
DIY bricklaying is realistic for small, non-structural jobs such as garden edging, simple planters, minor repointing and replacing an occasional damaged brick. Anything structural, load-bearing, high up, tied into an existing building, close to boundaries, or affecting weatherproofing is usually a job for a qualified bricklayer. If you are unsure whether a wall carries load or needs consent, treat it as professional work until your local council or a building professional confirms otherwise.
Overview
The main difference between hiring a bricklayer and doing it yourself is not just speed or neatness: it is whether the job affects structure, safety, drainage, waterproofing or legal compliance. A careful homeowner can usually handle small, low-risk masonry tasks where appearance matters more than engineering and where failure would not endanger anyone. Typical examples are a short decorative wall, a barbecue surround, a planter, patch repairs and some repointing. Even then, success depends on accurate setting out, proper support, suitable materials and patience. A professional bricklayer is the better choice when the work must be straight, level, durable and compliant from the start, especially for retaining walls, boundary walls, chimneys, parapets, foundations, structural openings, cavity walls, damp-related details or anything attached to a house. These jobs often involve hidden technical details such as movement joints, ties, flashing, weep holes, footing design and load paths. Mistakes can lead to cracking, leaning, water ingress or unsafe collapse. A good rule of thumb is this: if the wall only has to look decent and stand safely at low height in your garden, DIY may be reasonable; if it supports, retains, encloses, waterproofs or protects people, bring in a professional.
Who this is for
Homeowners comparing a small DIY masonry job with hiring a bricklayer, especially for garden features, repairs and basic low-risk walls.
What you’ll need
- A clear idea of whether the job is decorative or structural
- Basic hand tools for measuring, mixing, laying and cleaning
- Suitable bricks or blocks matched to the existing work where relevant
- Appropriate mortar recommended for the brick type and job
- Safe access and enough working space
- Manufacturer instructions for the mortar or repair product
- Local council guidance on whether consent or inspections are required
Before you start
Work out exactly what the wall or repair does. If it carries weight, retains soil, forms part of a house, affects waterproofing, includes a chimney or is near a boundary, stop and check local building rules and the original design. Match new bricks and mortar to the existing construction where possible, because incompatible materials can trap moisture or cause cracking. Also check ground conditions, drainage and whether any underground services could be affected before digging.
Step-by-step
- 1
Decide whether the job is suitable for DIY
Class the work as either non-structural or potentially structural. Low-risk DIY jobs usually include minor repointing, replacing one or two damaged bricks, small freestanding decorative features and very simple low garden walls that do not retain soil or support anything. Do not assume a wall is non-structural just because it is small or old.
Why: This is the key decision. Structural or weatherproofing work has consequences that are not always visible until damage appears.
- 2
Check permissions, boundaries and hidden risks
Before buying materials, check with your local council whether the proposed work needs consent, inspection or specific design input. Confirm the boundary line if the wall is near a neighbour. If digging is involved, identify underground services before starting.
Why: Masonry work can trigger legal, safety and neighbour disputes, and digging without checking services can be dangerous.
- 3
Choose the right materials and match the existing work
Use bricks or blocks suited to the location and exposure, and use a mortar or repair product recommended for that masonry type. For repairs, try to match the size, appearance and performance of the original materials. Follow the product label and manufacturer guidance rather than mixing by guesswork.
Why: Wrong materials can cause poor bond, staining, moisture problems, frost damage or visible patchiness.
- 4
Prepare the base or repair area properly
For new work, set out the wall carefully, prepare the ground and make sure any required footing or base is designed appropriately for the wall type and site conditions. For repairs, remove loose or failed material cleanly without damaging surrounding bricks, and dampen or prepare surfaces if the product instructions require it.
Why: Most masonry failures start with poor support or poor preparation, not with the brick itself.
- 5
Build or repair in small, controlled sections
Lay out a dry trial section first if you are building something new. Keep courses level, joints consistent and alignment checked frequently with a straightedge and level. For repointing or brick replacement, work on a small area at a time so you can control finish and curing. Stop if the wall begins to drift out of line or if the mortar is behaving unexpectedly.
Why: Small corrections are easy early on; large corrections later often mean taking work down and starting again.
- 6
Protect the work while it sets
Shield fresh masonry from heavy rain, strong sun, frost and accidental knocks, following the product and manufacturer guidance for curing and protection. Do not load, lean on or backfill against new work until it has developed enough strength under the recommended conditions.
Why: Fresh mortar is vulnerable. Early movement or bad weather can weaken the bond and spoil the finish.
- 7
Inspect honestly and know when to stop
Check for plumb, level, solid bonding, neat joints, good drainage details and any signs of movement or cracking. If the result is visibly leaning, cracking, hollow, loose or taking in water, pause and get professional advice before carrying on.
Why: A small defect in masonry can become a costly rebuild if you keep building on top of it.
Why this works
Brickwork lasts when loads are transferred safely to the ground, units are bonded correctly, moisture is managed and the mortar is compatible with the masonry and exposure conditions. DIY is workable only when the consequences of imperfect workmanship are low and the build-up is simple.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Treating a structural or retaining wall as a simple DIY job
- Using mortar or repair products without checking manufacturer suitability
- Building on an inadequate base or unknown ground conditions
- Ignoring drainage, weep paths or moisture control details
- Trying to lay too much in one go and losing level or line
- Poor matching of repair materials to older brickwork
- Working in unsuitable weather without protecting fresh masonry
Troubleshooting
Wall or feature starts leaning or drifting out of line
Stop immediately, check level and alignment, and take down the recent section if needed rather than trying to hide the error higher up.
Mortar crumbles, smears badly or does not bond well
Check that the product is suitable, mixed and used exactly as instructed, and that the bricks and weather conditions are appropriate.
Cracks appear soon after building
Look for movement in the base, poor support, rapid drying, incompatible materials or unintended loading. Structural cracks need professional assessment.
Water shows up on or behind the wall
Review whether the wall needs proper drainage, flashing, capping, weep details or repointing. Moisture issues in house walls should be assessed professionally.
Compare your options
DIY small non-structural brickwork
Best for: Low garden features, simple decorative walls, minor repairs and basic repointing
Pros: Lower labour cost, flexible timing, useful for learning and simple cosmetic improvements
Cons: Easy to get lines, levels and finish wrong; failures often come from hidden preparation errors; limited to low-risk work
Hire a bricklayer
Best for: Structural work, visible front-of-house work, large areas, complex detailing and anything needing durable professional finish
Pros: Better workmanship, faster progress, proper setting out, stronger understanding of drainage and movement details, lower risk of costly rework
Cons: Higher upfront cost and less flexibility on timing
DIY preparation, professional build
Best for: People who want to save money without taking on the skilled masonry itself
Pros: You may be able to handle clearing, access, demolition or simple cleanup while leaving critical work to a pro
Cons: You still need the trade to confirm what preparation is acceptable, and poor prep can delay the job
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY small non-structural brickwork | Low garden features, simple decorative walls, minor repairs and basic repointing | Lower labour cost, flexible timing, useful for learning and simple cosmetic improvements | Easy to get lines, levels and finish wrong; failures often come from hidden preparation errors; limited to low-risk work |
| Hire a bricklayer | Structural work, visible front-of-house work, large areas, complex detailing and anything needing durable professional finish | Better workmanship, faster progress, proper setting out, stronger understanding of drainage and movement details, lower risk of costly rework | Higher upfront cost and less flexibility on timing |
| DIY preparation, professional build | People who want to save money without taking on the skilled masonry itself | You may be able to handle clearing, access, demolition or simple cleanup while leaving critical work to a pro | You still need the trade to confirm what preparation is acceptable, and poor prep can delay the job |
Alternatives
- Use pavers, sleepers or modular garden edging for simple landscaping features instead of bricklaying
- Use a professional for the main wall and do only painting, planting, cleanup or non-technical finishing yourself
- Choose blockwork or another system only if a professional confirms it suits the job and local requirements
Pro tips
- Practise on a small hidden feature before attempting anything prominent
- Buy a few extra matching bricks in case of breakage or colour variation
- Take photos of each stage, especially the base and any hidden details
- If repairing older masonry, test your cleaning method on a discreet area first
- Stop work at the first sign that the wall is not staying true
Safety notes
- Wear gloves, eye protection and suitable footwear when cutting, mixing or handling masonry
- Masonry units are heavy; use safe lifting technique and do not overreach
- Cement-based products can irritate or burn skin; follow the label precautions
- Be cautious around ladders, scaffolds and any work at height
- Check for underground services before excavation
Legal & regulatory notes
Building and boundary rules vary by location and by what the wall does. In New Zealand, building work may require consent depending on the structure, height, use and whether it is retaining or part of a dwelling. Work near a boundary can also involve neighbour and planning issues. Always confirm requirements with your local council before starting.
What this guide does not cover: This guide compares typical homeowner-friendly brickwork with work better left to a bricklayer. It does not provide engineering design, site-specific footing design, exact mix instructions, consent exemptions, or detailed methods for structural masonry, retaining walls, chimneys or weathertightness details.
Cost considerations
DIY can save on labour for small cosmetic jobs, but masonry is unforgiving: if the base, alignment or materials are wrong, the cost of demolition and rebuilding can outweigh any saving. Professional work often costs more upfront but can be cheaper overall for structural, prominent or technically detailed jobs.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified builder or licensed tradesperson through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Can I build my own garden wall?+
Possibly, if it is a simple, low-risk, non-retaining decorative wall and local rules allow it. If it retains soil, sits on a boundary, is unusually high or connects to a building, get professional advice first.
Is repointing suitable for DIY?+
Small areas of superficial repointing can be, but you need to use a compatible mortar and avoid damaging the bricks. If joints are failing across a large area or moisture is getting in, have it assessed professionally.
How do I know if a wall is structural?+
If it supports floors, roofs, lintels, heavy features, retained ground or parts of the building envelope, assume it may be structural. When in doubt, ask a qualified building professional rather than guessing.
Can I replace a few damaged bricks myself?+
Sometimes, yes, if the area is small and non-structural. The main risks are damaging surrounding bricks, using the wrong replacement or affecting weatherproofing, so proceed cautiously.
When is a bricklayer worth it for a small job?+
When the wall is highly visible, must match existing work closely, has awkward details, or any mistake would affect safety or weather resistance.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 25 September 2026.
- New Zealand Building Performance · government
Supports the need to check building consent requirements, compliance obligations and guidance for building work in New Zealand.
- New Zealand Legislation - Building Act 2004 · government
Supports that some building work is regulated and that homeowners should verify legal requirements rather than assume work is exempt.
- BRANZ · industry
Supports good practice around durability, moisture management and the technical complexity of masonry and building envelope work.
Core bricklaying principles change slowly, but local consent rules and accepted building details can change and should be checked before work starts.