Clay brick vs concrete block which should you build with compared
Quick Answer
Neither clay brick nor concrete block is universally better: the right choice depends on the building type, climate, structural design, finish you want, and who will build it. In general, clay brick is often chosen for appearance, durability and low upkeep on domestic facing walls, while concrete block is often chosen for speed, structural walls and walls that will be rendered or clad. The final choice should be made with your designer, engineer or builder because the wall system, foundation, insulation, moisture control and local code requirements all have to work together.
Overview
Clay brick and concrete block are both proven masonry materials, but they behave differently in practice. Clay bricks are smaller units, usually slower to lay, and commonly selected where the finished brick face is part of the look of the building. They tend to suit homes and extensions where appearance, long service life and a traditional or premium finish matter. Concrete blocks are larger units, so walls can go up faster, and they are widely used for structural walls, retaining walls, basements, garages and buildings that will later be plastered, rendered or otherwise covered. The best choice is rarely about the unit alone. You need to think about structural loads, ground conditions, exposure to rain and salt air, thermal performance, sound insulation, fire performance, movement control, workmanship quality and how the wall will be finished. A well-designed block wall can outperform a badly detailed brick wall, and vice versa. Labour availability also matters: in some places it is easier to find a good blocklayer than a bricklayer, or the other way round. If you are comparing them for a new build, ask for the whole wall assembly to be compared, not just the material. That means foundations, reinforcement if needed, insulation method, cavity or drainage details, finishes and maintenance over time.
Who this is for
Homeowners, renovators and small developers deciding between brick and block for a house, extension, boundary wall, garage or similar low-rise project.
What you’ll need
- Your plans or concept drawings
- Site and soil information
- Local building code or council guidance
- Manufacturer technical literature for the brick or block system you are considering
- A builder, designer or engineer for structural and compliance advice
Before you start
Check whether the wall is loadbearing, retaining, external, internal, below ground or just a veneer. Confirm local code and consent requirements, exposure conditions such as wind, rain and coastal air, and whether you want the masonry to be the final visible finish or just a substrate for render or cladding. Also check who will build it: good results depend heavily on skilled workmanship and correct detailing.
Step-by-step
- 1
Define what the wall needs to do
List the wall’s job before comparing materials: structure, weather protection, appearance, thermal performance, sound control, fire separation, impact resistance or retaining earth. Separate must-haves from nice-to-haves.
Why: A material that is ideal for a rendered garage wall may be the wrong choice for an exposed feature facade or a retaining wall.
- 2
Decide whether appearance or finish is the priority
If you want the masonry itself to be the finished external look, compare brick colours, textures, mortar joint style and long-term visual consistency. If the wall will be plastered, rendered or clad, compare how well each system accepts that finish and how movement and cracking will be managed.
Why: Many people compare units but forget the final finish. The finish often drives maintenance needs, crack visibility and total build cost.
- 3
Compare structural needs with a designer or engineer
Ask for the wall system to be assessed as a whole, including footing size, reinforcement where required, lintels, movement joints, ties, control joints and any cavity or drainage provisions. For retaining, basement or heavily loaded walls, get engineered design rather than relying on generic advice.
Why: Brick and block can both be structural, but they are designed and detailed differently. The supporting structure can change the best choice.
- 4
Check moisture and exposure details
Review how each option deals with rain penetration, rising damp, drainage, flashings, weep paths, sealants and exposure to frost or salt where relevant. Use the brick or block manufacturer’s technical documents and local code guidance for the exact system details.
Why: Masonry failures are often moisture-detail failures, not material failures. Good water management is essential for durability.
- 5
Compare thermal and acoustic performance as a wall assembly
Ask for insulation and sound performance to be compared using the full build-up, not the masonry unit on its own. Include cavities, internal linings, plaster, render and any thermal breaks or added insulation.
Why: A heavier unit may help sound control, but insulation performance depends on the whole wall design.
- 6
Assess buildability and available labour
Speak to local builders or masonry contractors about who is readily available, what they commonly build well, and any practical issues with handling, cutting, reinforcement, services chasing, plastering or matching future repairs.
Why: The better-built option often performs better than the theoretically better material installed poorly.
- 7
Compare whole-of-project cost, not just material cost
Get like-for-like quotes that include labour, reinforcement if needed, mortar, ties, lintels, insulation, coatings or render, scaffold, waste, and any maintenance expected over time. Ask what is excluded.
Why: One material may seem cheaper per unit but cost more once finishes, labour or structural requirements are added.
- 8
Choose the system, then follow manufacturer and code details exactly
Once you decide, use the specified masonry units, mortar, accessories, movement joints, damp-proofing and finishes set out by the designer, engineer and manufacturer. Do not substitute units or details on site without approval.
Why: Performance depends on the system being built as designed. Unapproved substitutions can cause cracking, moisture ingress or compliance problems.
Why this works
Brick and block are both durable masonry materials, but each performs best when matched to the right structural role, exposure conditions and finish. Comparing the full wall assembly rather than the unit alone avoids expensive mistakes and leads to a build that is easier to construct, more durable and more likely to meet code and performance expectations.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Choosing only on appearance or unit price without comparing the full wall system
- Assuming all brick and all block walls perform the same regardless of design details
- Ignoring moisture management, especially flashings, cavities, drainage and rising damp control
- Using a structural solution without engineering where loads, retaining or below-ground conditions are involved
- Forgetting movement and control joints until cracking appears
- Assuming a rendered finish hides poor blockwork or poor detailing
Troubleshooting
You want the brick look but need faster build speed
Consider whether a brick veneer system over a framed structure suits the project better than full masonry, and have the wall assembly checked for compliance and moisture detailing.
You want block for cost reasons but do not want a plain industrial appearance
Compare rendered, plastered, bagged or architectural block finishes and ask how cracking, maintenance and repainting will be handled over time.
Cracking is a concern
Review movement joint locations, footing design, reinforcement requirements, curing and moisture control details with the designer or engineer. Cracking is often a detailing or foundation issue rather than a simple material choice issue.
The site is very exposed or damp
Prioritise a wall system with robust drainage, flashing and moisture control details suited to the exposure, using manufacturer guidance and local code requirements.
Compare your options
Clay brick
Best for: Visible exterior walls, homes where appearance and low routine upkeep matter, and projects aiming for a traditional or premium masonry finish
Pros: Attractive finished look without extra cladding; very durable when properly detailed; colour is built into the unit rather than painted on; generally low maintenance as a face finish; good fire resistance
Cons: Usually slower to lay because units are smaller; often more dependent on neat bricklaying for the final look; may not be the quickest choice for structural walls; repairs or matching can be difficult if the exact brick changes over time
Concrete block
Best for: Structural walls, garages, retaining walls, basements, service areas, and projects that will be rendered, plastered or otherwise finished over
Pros: Larger units can speed up wall construction; widely used for structural masonry; can be reinforced in suitable systems; good robustness and fire performance; often practical for below-ground or utilitarian applications
Cons: Appearance is often less decorative unless using architectural block or added finishes; rendered or painted finishes add maintenance; poor detailing can lead to visible cracking in finishes; thermal performance still depends on the wall build-up
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clay brick | Visible exterior walls, homes where appearance and low routine upkeep matter, and projects aiming for a traditional or premium masonry finish | Attractive finished look without extra cladding; very durable when properly detailed; colour is built into the unit rather than painted on; generally low maintenance as a face finish; good fire resistance | Usually slower to lay because units are smaller; often more dependent on neat bricklaying for the final look; may not be the quickest choice for structural walls; repairs or matching can be difficult if the exact brick changes over time |
| Concrete block | Structural walls, garages, retaining walls, basements, service areas, and projects that will be rendered, plastered or otherwise finished over | Larger units can speed up wall construction; widely used for structural masonry; can be reinforced in suitable systems; good robustness and fire performance; often practical for below-ground or utilitarian applications | Appearance is often less decorative unless using architectural block or added finishes; rendered or painted finishes add maintenance; poor detailing can lead to visible cracking in finishes; thermal performance still depends on the wall build-up |
Alternatives
- Brick veneer over timber or steel framing
- Insulated concrete formwork where suitable and approved
- Autoclaved aerated concrete systems
- Timber-framed wall with external cladding
- Precast concrete wall systems for specific projects
Pro tips
- Ask your designer or builder for photos of recent local projects in both materials under similar exposure conditions.
- Compare samples in daylight if appearance matters; brick and mortar can look very different once laid.
- If the wall will be rendered, ask what preparation, mesh, control joints and coatings are required to reduce cracking risk.
- Check future service runs early; cutting chases into masonry later can be disruptive and may affect structural or fire performance.
- Use the exact manufacturer literature for the chosen masonry system rather than mixing details from different products.
Safety notes
- Masonry units are heavy and can cause strain or crush injuries if handled badly.
- Structural, retaining and below-ground masonry should not be improvised by a homeowner.
- Cutting masonry creates dust; follow the tool and product safety guidance and use suitable dust control and protective equipment.
- Unstable partially built walls can collapse if not properly supported and sequenced during construction.
Legal & regulatory notes
Building work using brick or block may need consent, inspection and engineered design depending on the project and location. Structural walls, retaining walls, fire-rated walls, boundary walls and below-ground walls often have stricter requirements. Always confirm the applicable rules with your local authority and use compliant system details.
What this guide does not cover: This guide is a practical comparison, not a structural design, code compliance assessment, product specification or cost estimate for your exact project. It does not replace site-specific advice from a designer, engineer, builder or local authority.
Cost considerations
Concrete block often reduces laying time because the units are larger, but total cost can rise if reinforcement, rendering, coatings or extra finishing are needed. Clay brick can have higher labour input yet lower finishing needs where the exposed brick face is the final appearance. The meaningful comparison is the installed wall system over its life, including finishing and maintenance, not just the unit price.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified builder or licensed tradesperson through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Is brick stronger than concrete block?+
Not as a simple rule. Strength depends on the specific units, mortar, reinforcement, wall design and workmanship. For any structural comparison, rely on the engineer’s design and the manufacturer’s technical data.
Which is better for insulation?+
Neither material should be judged on its own. Thermal performance depends on the full wall assembly, including cavity design, insulation, linings and finishes.
Which lasts longer?+
Both can last a very long time if properly designed, detailed and maintained. Moisture management, foundation performance and workmanship usually matter more than a simple brick-versus-block label.
Which is better for sound reduction?+
Heavier masonry can help with sound control, but the best result depends on the complete wall build-up, openings, insulation and internal linings.
Can I use block and then face it with brick?+
Yes, some projects use a structural wall with a brick outer leaf or veneer, but the ties, cavity, drainage and structural design must be properly specified.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 25 September 2026.
- Brick Industry Association · industry
Supports general guidance on clay brick uses, appearance as a finished facing material, durability considerations, and the importance of proper wall detailing.
- Concrete Masonry & Hardscapes Association · industry
Supports general guidance on concrete masonry applications, structural wall use, reinforcement in suitable systems, moisture control and wall-system design considerations.
- International Code Council · industry
Supports the need to follow applicable building code requirements rather than relying on generic material comparisons.
The broad comparison between brick and block changes slowly, but local code requirements, product ranges and available systems can change.