Diy vs hiring a bricklayer what you can and cant do (2026)
Quick Answer
DIY brickwork can be realistic for small, non-structural jobs such as simple garden edging, very low decorative walls, or replacing a few damaged bricks if you can match materials and follow safe methods. You should not DIY anything structural, loadbearing, high, retaining soil, near boundaries, tied into the house, or likely to need consent, engineering, or waterproofing details. If the wall affects safety, stability, weather-tightness, or compliance, hire a qualified bricklayer or mason.
Overview
The real question is not just whether you can lay bricks, but whether the job stays safe, durable and compliant after you finish. Bricklaying looks straightforward, yet good results depend on accurate setting out, correct mortar selection, consistent jointing, level courses, support at openings, movement control, drainage, and proper ties or reinforcement where required. Small cosmetic repairs and very simple freestanding garden features are often within reach of a careful DIYer. By contrast, house walls, chimneys, parapets, retaining walls, boundary walls, fireplaces, structural alterations, and anything carrying weight or resisting wind should normally be done by a professional. A useful rule is this: if failure would only look untidy, DIY may be reasonable; if failure could hurt someone, damage a building, let in water, or create a compliance problem, bring in a bricklayer. Even on modest jobs, preparation matters more than speed. Poor foundations, the wrong mortar, badly aligned courses, or rushed finishing cause most failures. If you do decide to DIY, keep the project small, check local council rules before starting, copy an existing proven detail where appropriate, and stop if the work begins to affect structure, drainage, fire safety, or weather-tightness.
Who this is for
Homeowners comparing DIY with hiring a bricklayer for small repairs, garden brickwork, and basic non-structural masonry.
What you’ll need
- Clear plan of the job and whether it is structural or cosmetic
- Local council guidance or building consent information
- Manufacturer instructions for bricks, blocks, mortar and any wall ties or reinforcement
- Basic bricklaying tools if DIYing a small job
- Safe access and lifting plan for heavy materials
- Personal protective equipment suitable for cutting, mixing and handling masonry
Before you start
Check whether the wall is structural, retaining, loadbearing, attached to the home, near a boundary, or part of a fireplace, chimney, parapet, or weather-tight building envelope. Confirm whether consent, engineering, or inspections are required in your area. Identify the exact brick type and mortar compatibility if repairing older work, because hard modern mortar can damage older bricks. Make sure the ground or base is suitable; weak support ruins otherwise neat brickwork.
Step-by-step
- 1
Decide if the job is decorative, repair, or structural
Define exactly what you want to do: replace a few bricks, repoint joints, build a low garden feature, or construct a wall. Look for signs that the work is more than cosmetic, such as cracking through multiple courses, bulging, leaning, loose sections, movement near openings, water ingress, or links to the main building.
Why: This is the main divide between a sensible DIY job and one that needs a professional. Structural or movement-related problems cannot be fixed reliably by surface patching.
- 2
Check permissions, boundaries and hidden risks
Before buying materials, check local council requirements, boundary responsibilities, underground services, and whether the wall affects drainage, fire separation, or neighbour property. If the work touches an existing building, confirm how it is tied in and whether moisture barriers or flashings are involved.
Why: Brickwork can create legal and compliance problems if built in the wrong place or without the right approvals. Hidden services and damp details are common expensive mistakes.
- 3
Choose DIY only for small, low-risk work
Good DIY candidates include replacing isolated damaged bricks, very small areas of repointing, or building a simple low decorative garden feature on a suitable base. Avoid DIY for retaining walls, tall freestanding walls, steps where poor dimensions become a trip risk, anything loadbearing, or anything exposed to significant weather where waterproofing details matter.
Why: Small jobs let you work slowly, correct mistakes early, and limit the consequences if the finish is imperfect.
- 4
Match materials properly
Use a brick that matches the existing work in type, size, durability and appearance where needed. Select mortar and any ancillary products according to the brick manufacturer and the intended exposure conditions. For repairs to older masonry, be cautious about using a much harder mortar than the original.
Why: Mismatched materials can crack, trap moisture, stain, or age badly. Compatibility is as important as neat laying.
- 5
Prepare the base, setting out and support
For any new brickwork, set out lines carefully, establish corners, and ensure the base or footing is appropriate for the wall type and site conditions. For repairs, remove only what can be safely rebuilt and support adjacent masonry if stability is uncertain. Keep courses level, plumb and aligned from the start rather than trying to correct drift later.
Why: Brickwork accuracy compounds course by course. A poor base or bad first line usually means the whole job ends up crooked or unstable.
- 6
Build or repair slowly and check each stage
Mix and use mortar in line with product guidance. Lay bricks consistently, fully bedded where required, keep joints even, and clean excess mortar as you go without smearing faces. Regularly check level, plumb, straightness and bond pattern. Stop if you see movement, persistent cracking, or the wall pulling out of line.
Why: Bricklaying is unforgiving: small errors become obvious and hard to correct once the mortar firms up.
- 7
Know when to stop and call a bricklayer
If the job needs cutting around structural openings, tying into an existing wall, reinforcement, lintels, copings, drainage details, expansion movement detailing, or any design judgement beyond basic decorative work, pause and bring in a professional.
Why: These details are where failures cause injury, leaks, collapse, or failed inspections.
Why this works
Brickwork lasts when loads are carried safely to the ground, moisture is managed, materials are compatible, and the wall is built true from the first course. Professionals reduce risk because they know the sequence, detailing and tolerances that keep masonry stable and durable.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Treating a cracked or leaning wall as a cosmetic problem instead of a stability issue
- Building on an inadequate base or existing slab without checking suitability
- Using the wrong mortar for the brick type or exposure
- Trying to build too much in one go without checking level, plumb and line constantly
- Poorly matching replacement bricks, which can affect both appearance and durability
- Ignoring drainage, weep paths, copings or weather protection on exposed work
- Cutting bricks without proper dust control and eye protection
- Assuming a boundary or front wall can be rebuilt without checking local rules
Troubleshooting
The wall starts to lean or wander out of line
Stop early, take down the affected section while the mortar is still workable if safe to do so, reset your line and corners, and check the base before rebuilding.
Mortar smears are staining the brick faces
Clean off fresh residue carefully using methods recommended by the brick or mortar manufacturer. Avoid aggressive cleaning that can damage faces or drive salts into the masonry.
Replacement bricks keep cracking or spalling
Check whether the brick type suits the exposure and whether the mortar is too hard or trapping moisture. If it is an older wall, get advice on material compatibility.
Repointed joints crumble or fall out
Remove loose material properly, ensure joints are prepared correctly, and use a compatible mortar. Deep or widespread joint loss may indicate broader wall deterioration.
Water is getting through after a repair
Look beyond the visible joint. The issue may be failed flashing, coping, cracked units, missing weep provision, or movement. Building-envelope leaks usually need professional assessment.
Compare your options
DIY small non-structural brickwork
Best for: Minor cosmetic repairs, replacing a few bricks, or a simple low decorative garden feature
Pros: Lower labour cost, flexible timing, useful for learning, acceptable where appearance standards are modest
Cons: Slow, physically demanding, easy to get crooked or messy, mistakes can be expensive to undo, limited to low-risk work
Hire a bricklayer
Best for: Structural work, visible front-of-house masonry, boundary walls, retaining walls, chimneys, fireplaces, and any job needing compliance confidence
Pros: Better finish, faster progress, proper setting out and detailing, lower risk of failure, more suitable for complex repairs
Cons: Higher upfront cost, booking lead times, quality still depends on choosing the right tradesperson
DIY preparation and hire for the laying
Best for: People wanting to save some money while leaving technical masonry to a pro
Pros: You may reduce labour on site clearing, access, and material handling while preserving workmanship where it matters
Cons: Only works if the bricklayer agrees, and poor prep can still slow the job or create disputes
| Option | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY small non-structural brickwork | Minor cosmetic repairs, replacing a few bricks, or a simple low decorative garden feature | Lower labour cost, flexible timing, useful for learning, acceptable where appearance standards are modest | Slow, physically demanding, easy to get crooked or messy, mistakes can be expensive to undo, limited to low-risk work |
| Hire a bricklayer | Structural work, visible front-of-house masonry, boundary walls, retaining walls, chimneys, fireplaces, and any job needing compliance confidence | Better finish, faster progress, proper setting out and detailing, lower risk of failure, more suitable for complex repairs | Higher upfront cost, booking lead times, quality still depends on choosing the right tradesperson |
| DIY preparation and hire for the laying | People wanting to save some money while leaving technical masonry to a pro | You may reduce labour on site clearing, access, and material handling while preserving workmanship where it matters | Only works if the bricklayer agrees, and poor prep can still slow the job or create disputes |
Alternatives
- Use a professional for the structural or visible masonry and do only demolition, site clearing, or cleanup yourself if agreed
- Choose a different landscape material for a garden feature if bricklaying skill is the main barrier
- For isolated cosmetic chips or hairline mortar defects, consider a small repair rather than rebuilding a whole section
Pro tips
- Start with the least risky task, such as replacing a single brick in an unseen area, before attempting a larger run
- Buy extra matching bricks early if appearance matters; exact matches can become hard to find later
- Photograph the existing bond pattern and joint finish before removing anything
- Keep weather in mind; very wet, very hot, or freezing conditions can spoil results, so follow product guidance
- If the wall is old, assume material compatibility matters and get advice before using strong modern repair products
Safety notes
- Bricks, mortar and masonry debris are heavy; use safe lifting methods and avoid overloading supports or scaffolds
- Cutting masonry creates hazardous dust; use appropriate dust control and respiratory protection
- Wear eye, hand and foot protection when handling bricks and tools
- Do not dismantle a cracked, bulging or leaning wall without assessing collapse risk
- Keep children and bystanders away from unstable masonry and cutting areas
Legal & regulatory notes
Building and boundary rules vary by country and council. In New Zealand, building work may need consent depending on what is being built and whether it is structural or affects safety or weathertightness. Boundary walls, retaining walls, fireplaces, chimneys and work attached to a dwelling often raise extra compliance issues. Always check current council and national building guidance before starting.
What this guide does not cover: This guide compares DIY with hiring a bricklayer at a practical level. It does not provide engineering design, consent advice for a specific property, exact mortar specifications, footing dimensions, or step-by-step instructions for structural masonry.
Cost considerations
DIY can save labour on very small jobs, but brickwork errors are often costly because the fix usually means taking sections down and rebuilding them. Hiring a bricklayer usually costs more upfront but can be better value for visible, structural or weather-exposed work because it reduces waste, rework and compliance risk.
Prefer to hire a professional?
If this job is beyond a confident DIY — or the work needs to be done by a licensed professional — you can find a verified builder or licensed tradesperson through these directories of real, verified trade businesses. Compare local tradespeople, read their details and request quotes before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Can I build my own brick garden wall?+
Possibly, if it is genuinely low, simple and non-structural, and local rules allow it. If it retains soil, is tall, sits on a boundary, or could injure someone if it fails, hire a professional.
Can I replace a few loose or damaged bricks myself?+
Yes, often you can, provided the issue is isolated and the wall is otherwise sound. If the damage is linked to cracking, bulging, damp or movement, get professional advice first.
Is repointing easier than laying bricks?+
Usually yes, but it still needs care. Poor repointing can trap moisture, look patchy, or fail quickly if the mortar is incompatible or the joints are not prepared properly.
How do I know if a wall is structural?+
If it supports floors, roofs, openings, heavy features, retains ground, or is tied into the house in a way that affects stability or weather-tightness, treat it as structural unless a qualified professional says otherwise.
Should I DIY a chimney or fireplace repair?+
Generally no. Chimneys and fireplaces involve fire safety, weather exposure, and stability concerns, so they are usually professional work.
What if I only care about function, not a perfect finish?+
Function still matters more than appearance. Even rough-looking brickwork can be acceptable on a hidden decorative feature, but poor alignment, support or drainage can still make it fail.
Sources & references
Guidance on this page is traced to documented sources. Last checked 25 September 2026.
- New Zealand Building Performance · government
Supports checking New Zealand building consent requirements, code compliance, and official guidance before masonry work.
- BRANZ · industry
Supports practical building guidance in New Zealand, including durability, weathertightness and good construction practice.
Core masonry good practice changes slowly, but local consent rules, accepted details and product instructions can change and should be checked each time.